Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone in here ever tried to drive a tiptronic... It has to be the most annoying sh**ful way to drive I have ever experienced

What's annoying is driving in Sydney traffic and pushing your foot on the clutch 500 times for a 10km journey. I've just gone from a manual SSS to a tiptronic GT-t and I'm fine with that.

Have you got a tiptronic?

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have actually driven an R34 GTT Tiptronic. The transmission does suck. I think the best thing that could happen to these cars is to have a sex change (auto to manual). Ric Shaw gave this as his one and only advise to my cousin. He has now been convinced. Can anyone lend him $3,500?

If I was going to buy an auto car the only car that would be is a TT Supra. Auto's in those things go hard.

Problem is I wouldn't buy a supra. So It looks like no auto for me.

Besides traffic in Adelaide is fine. :)

My oldies new Nissan Patrol has a power assisted clutch.

It doesn't look like it would be to hard to adapt either.

good call samc..

I don't think the tiptronic is the best way to compare things. And don't forget a few years can make a big difference to the technology - tiptronic has changed a lot over the years since its come on the scene.

The power level of the 34 is also seems very low and its capable of much more with better tuning and components. Somebody should take a well tuned ~180rwkw modded 33 gts-t out there as a comparison also... might surprise them.

the xr6 has a GT45 turbo, running 6psi. It makes 240Kw at the flywheel. The skyline turbo's are alot smaller than the xr6 garret ballbearingn ones.

they are not a GT45 turbo on the XR6.

but needless to say, they are much bigger than the RB25 one, and not ceramic either.

Also your running a lot more torque with a good top end (XR)

there would be no-way that the sky would have one.

the turbo is a GT35/40 on the XR6. I believe it's the 600hp variant but i can get it confirmed if there is going to be an argument

Only 20minutes ago a had a run with a stocky XR6 T manual.

To my disbelief it wasn't that quick. I have more trouble passing a manual VX GenIII when its up and rolling.

I'm running 17psi up to around 5500rpm where boost drops to 12.5psi. I've got a FMIC, exhaust and external fuel pump which makes it run rich. On 12.5psi it makes around 150rwkw.

I came from behind roughly inline with his exhaust pipe. I cam on to boost in second and by the time I clicked third my drivers door was level with his front bumper. Third pulled me a couple of car lengths in front. The run was up hill. He then did the loosers flyby with the stock exhaust sounding like it is a major restriction.

Yes GT has no turbo. Just the ordinary 2.5LDE with variable timing. I've only got a 2.5 full exhaust system, air pod filter and a SAFC. Mind u for that ET I took out the rear seats, stereo, spare tyre, front bar (Cwest bar is pretty big) and only had a 1/4 tank. Still I was happy with that result, the best my previous near stock S2 R33 ever did was 14.35, though it was fully loaded.

Hehe ... do you have the tiptronic or manual box. Oh the 14.35 was done in a manual s2 r33 Gtst. I think a flat 14 should be possible with your setup if you are manual. I did test drive a manual r34GTT after my series 2 was stolen and I noticed that the NEO engine seemed to give more power higher in the revs than my r33 ever did. So I hope you get your flat 14 ET. Good Luck.

The XR6 Turbo hardly even needs to come onto boost because the 4litre capacity gives you crap loads of torque. Where a stock nissan needs to be on boost for general driving (or as I found). Also, the XR6 runs a T04 Turbo I beleive and a very small factory cooler. It it wasn't for a crap (Ford Only) fuel management system , a XR6 turbs with a few light mods, and 10psi, would blow the doors of a 300kw GT. Hence why ford dialed down the boost. I mean really, a stock 4 litre, makes around 170kw mark, a turbo addition at around 5-6psi, pumps 240 odd kw. Pretty impressive jump, and I know with 10psi, I/C and exhaust people make 300kw out of them. So really why would ford need to sell the V8's. We all know the Turbo variant has more punch and potential, but they have a strong market for the NA market and V8 market, so why mess with that. There was a review in HPI mag, showing a XR6 turbo against a Supra. Interesting read.

I prefer the skyline. I dont care how fast a XR6 can be, we always can show them a GTR (contest over) and also, we can throw a GTS around corners allot better that a full sized family car!

Over and out.

I've noticed with the RB's and their stock turbo set ups, when boosted, exhaust, fmic they tend to make ever so slightly more power at the rear wheels than what they used to make at the flywheel.

I.e My RB20DET. Stock 160kw boost + mods 164rwkw. R33 RB25DET's Stock 187kw boost + mods 195rwkw.

Whats the most power (reliably) the ford has made after an ecu, exhaust, fmic & boost upgrade?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...