Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a catch can, with a return drain piece at the bottom. it is custom made on the passenger side up the back. i heard it is not possible to plumb it to the turbo oil return as there is pressure. is there a way around it keeping the can on that side. i was told to go to the dipstick but its on the other side as you would know

Cheers...Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297526-catch-can-oil-drain/
Share on other sites

do you really need to return it to anywhere? I am not personally keen on returning catch tank stuff into my sump. it's usually watery/fuelly/oily stuff and aside from that there is usually bugger all in there. I empty mine about once a year and bugger all is in there.

you can T it into the turbo oil drain but it can be a bad idea as you most certainly don't want anything to fk that up as your turbo will quickly get fked if the oil drain gets blocked.

other than that you can drill and tap and put a fitting into the top of the sump and return it there but personally I'd just block it up and leave it.

If the motor is in any reasonable condition it shouldn't be breathing that much anyway.

If you fill a small can in more than a month you've got some real issues.

Do you have proper baffling inside the can etc etc?

otherwise just a 'tin', there is no point having it drain back. Need to filter it first.

Mine will breath 800ML of oil within about ooo... 130KMs of street driving...

Yes, sump is well and truly topped up because I'd been at the track, and NO, I don't have any external (Including the factory) drains hooked up... These are my issues... :thumbsup:

Ash: Was that directed to me? if it was, of course i think a catch can is beneficial thats why ive always had one. i just wasnt sure if it was better to have it draining back to the motor or not, as some friends have completely sealed up catch cans with the drain back to sump, and some have VTA ones with no drain.

I Dont get the claims about motor builds though, im not an engine builder i just get the feedback from a few very well respected engine builders who are on these forums.

Ben...

Edited by 2BNVS
If the motor is in any reasonable condition it shouldn't be breathing that much anyway.

If you fill a small can in more than a month you've got some real issues.

Do you have proper baffling inside the can etc etc?

otherwise just a 'tin', there is no point having it drain back. Need to filter it first.

agreed.

The issue with drain back systems is water contamination (read BEER BARONS post)

Overnight or over any period of time that the engine cools down condensation builds in the vents and lines (much like your exhaust), this vapor will also collect in the catch tank.... which then later drains into the sump... bad idea.

Yeh thats what i thought was the case also with condensation and whatnot...but havent seen or heard of anyone having any dramas with that setup. Especially if oil is changed at correct intervals. Ill be setting my road car up like this once i sort out some new mods(atm no catchcan just lines running to ground). Breather from crankcase inlet side to catchcan, and drain to sump from exhaust side.

I have seen this setup before and there appears to have been no dramas with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...