Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A bog stock falcon doesn't lose half its power in summer compared to winter thought, my point was, whilst a turbo car technically will lose more, it shouldn't lose half it's power, hence the standard air boxes are the way to go.

i have the air temp sensor between the intercooler and throttle body so it measures the air going into the throttle body.

the other day when i started the car it was at 0deg and after warming the car up it went up to 2 deg. it is cold here

as for your cars in the heat, just dont thrash it for extended periods of time. give it a squirt every now and then but then also give it some time to cool down a bit and it should be fine.

A bog stock falcon doesn't lose half its power in summer compared to winter thought, my point was, whilst a turbo car technically will lose more, it shouldn't lose half it's power, hence the standard air boxes are the way to go.

my pod sits on the front of my turbo and i cant say i have noticed a huge difference, 3rd has slightly less traction when its cold but thats about it.

my pod sits on the front of my turbo and i cant say i have noticed a huge difference, 3rd has slightly less traction when its cold but thats about it.

Well if you are having trouble with traction in 3rd when its hot I think we can safetly assume you have enough power that it simply doesn't matter :blink:

I was mainly refering to dudes with stock rb20/25s.

Hahaha

Has any one else got any air intake temperature readings/graphs to compare to mine? Possibly with a decent airbox setup?

Honestly compared to a hot day and a nice cool night mine feels like two different cars. Similar to the difference with driving by yourself or three other people in the car.

my setup is an apexi pod in a cold air box with cai from the grille...

cooler is a hybrid gt

on a hot day i really barely notice any difference

I might look into getting an oil cooler, ive heard people covering or blocking them up during the colder parts of the year due to oil temps taking too long to warm up, or something along those lines.

if anyone could give insight as to how much id be looking at to get one fitted to a stock r33 gtst? cheers. also do they all have to be mounted behind the drivers side fog lights? or is there another place better suited?

thanks!

Stick to the standard air box with a high flow panel filter. I´m running 250rwkw and barely notice any major reduction in performance on hotter days. Adding three passengers in the car results in a different story...

Keep in mind as well that it´s not just the hotter weather but the humidity that affects the performance of our turbo beasts. Car companies calculate power using the specific heat of DRY air. I know for a fact that a NA car on a 85% humidity day can theoretically have almost 10% less power than on a 25% humidity day... This would be higher on a turbocharged vehicle. Anyway, a little extra info for all the car nuts out there :)

btw, I´m not pulling this out of my A$$, I just finished my final year project on this kind of study.

Mine is only a bit slower on hot days - no issues with over temp. Running china-spec larger radiator, HDi FMIC, standard airbox with K&N filter. Running 10psi on stock turbo - seems dandy. I'm even getting frosted air out of the AC on humid days.

Actually I would say a large radiator is better protection.

from my previous experience, by just installing an oil cooler, water temps stay more constant. As oil temps go up, water temps follow because of the heat exchanger near the oil filter which uses water to cool down the water or uses the water to bring up the oil temp when the car is cold.

Yes a better radiator will cool more, but installing an oil cooler will

1. keep oil temps optimal 2. keep the overall engine temps down.

If you install both an aftermarket oil and water temp gauge you'll know what I mean.

I don't think I articulated this that well.. friday at work, blah :blink:

i know i should check with a gauge, but if the water temp stays fairly low then is it safe to assume the oil temps stay fairly low to? my oil pressure seams to stay higher which would suggest the oils not getting hot enough

Stick to the standard air box with a high flow panel filter. I´m running 250rwkw and barely notice any major reduction in performance on hotter days. Adding three passengers in the car results in a different story...

Keep in mind as well that it´s not just the hotter weather but the humidity that affects the performance of our turbo beasts. Car companies calculate power using the specific heat of DRY air. I know for a fact that a NA car on a 85% humidity day can theoretically have almost 10% less power than on a 25% humidity day... This would be higher on a turbocharged vehicle. Anyway, a little extra info for all the car nuts out there :blink:

btw, I´m not pulling this out of my A$$, I just finished my final year project on this kind of study.

Hmm there you go, must be the huge humidity that we get up here that kills the performance.

Edited by PM-R33
How high is 'higher' ?

its really hot here today (37+) and water temp creeped up to 78C (highest it ever gets) and the oil pressure got done to about 1.5kg/cm2 at 850 idle. usually stays up around 3-4kg until it gets over 70C. thats with hpr5 (5w-40). thinking about going even thinner oil after summer, it takes way too long to get hot enough to get down to the right pressure

Edited by JonnoHR31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...