Ah Crap, I Think I Need Help

[urzulus]

Ok, so after putting my BOV on i noticed a drop in turbo power. This was due to my boost solenoid working correctly as the pipe no longer leaked.

So i thought, time to install a Manual boost control (2), Pod Filter (3) and Boost guage (1).

Please tell me what i have done wrong, or how your is different.

My problems are:

- Boost peaks at 13 then is stable at 9-10 PSI BUT sometimes surges during boost.

- Boost guage does not read negative pressure, only positive (electronic "drift" guage).

- Does not feel like 10 PSI boost.

Troubleshooting:

- Wastegate works fine

- BOV works fine

- Car runs

- Boost gauge hooked up properly (electronic side)

- "5min boost solenoid overide" not performed

- Boost guage pickup connected to old boost solenoid limiter hose (1)

- Manual boost control set at abolute minimum

I suspect i have tapped into the wrong place for the gauge. I do not have a aftermarket Exhaust system (dont know if this would affect the overboost). I also do not have aftermarket fuel pump (pretty much a standard NEO with pod and manual control.

Edited November 29, 2009 by urzulus

[zei20l]

ok the boost gauge should be hooked up somewhere after the throttle body. assuming it measures vacuum also, but its the best spot as this is the boost the engine is 'seeing'

if its hooked up somwhere near the boost solenoid, thats the wrong spot.

for the manual boost 'controller' depending on what type it is, series or parrallel, youll need to get an installation diagram to make sure you have it all in

but to make sure thats not the problem, put the factory one back in and make sure there is no surging.

Edited November 29, 2009 by zei20l

[urzulus]

It might be easy if someone just takes a pic of where there boost gauge is installed, as i couldnt find out where to do this on our forums (no pic).

for the manual boost 'controller' depending on what type it is, series or parrallel, youll need to get an installation diagram to make sure you have it all in

but to make sure thats not the problem, put the factory one back in and make sure there is no surging.

- there is no "factory" controller, you slice a pipe and install. To refactory it i would have to reconnect the boost limiter/enabler (5 min mod)

Attatched is a pic of the boost T instruction pic, im pretty sure its in the right place.

Edited November 29, 2009 by urzulus

[SHIZNT]

There should be a nipple on the front of the inlet manfold.. run your boost guage from there... should read correctly

[urzulus]

/cry

I dont know what a "inlet manifold" is! My specialty is electronics.

(help me google!)

[kidafa]

Do yourself a favour and ditch the bleed valve and gauge and get a profec b spec II and use it for control and monitoring ?

[urzulus]

Yeah... probably wont be getting rid of the boost gauge at this point, might upgrade to ebc later on.

I just need a pic of the hose connection for a boost guage. I mean it works for boost atm, but id rather have it all correct.

Ill keep checking back here, might go hook up my neons atm. A quick 30 min job.

[KiwiRS4T]

Ok this is for an S1 but I assume the neo is the same. If you follow the airpipe from the brake booster (the big round black thing on the opposite side of the firewall from the brake pedal) you will see that it is connected to the plenum (inlet manifold). About 55mm back towards the brake booster on the plenum from where the brake booster line goes there should be a small nipple which may be capped or may have the hose for the stock boost guage. Connect your boost guage there.

Your diagram for the boost controller seems to be missing a bleed (relief) line.

[urzulus]

WOOT!

Thanks kiwi, although your directions might have been a little off, id say it was 54mm away

Here is a pic to show where to connect a boost guage to on a S2 Stagea.

[kidafa]

might go hook up my neons atm. A quick 30 min job.

Are you for real........

1999 Stagea Series2 (Dolphin Bodykit)

< Turbosmart BOV - Alarm - ICE - Turbosmart T Boost controller - Drift Pod Filter - Drift Boost guage - Rodney Jane 18" Blade>

VERY VERY interesting choice of mods dude. These seem to all be for "show" or should I say sound? with minimal performance gains....

I thought these kinda mods were reserved to P platers in s13's?

[ali-turko]

sik neons what every skyline needs

[66yostagea]

Are you for real........

VERY VERY interesting choice of mods dude. These seem to all be for "show" or should I say sound? with minimal performance gains....

I thought these kinda mods were reserved to P platers in s13's?

This day and age P Platers are not allowed to drive turbo petrol cars in Qld. I just got my P Plater an N/A S13 manual.

[stagman]

This day and age P Platers are not allowed to drive turbo petrol cars in Qld. I just got my P Plater an N/A S13 manual.

" Not allowed " ... There are both legal and illegal ways around this rule haha

I hope when he said neons he's talking footwell or similar. I would hate; absolutely hate to see a stagea around the place with engine or under carriage ones. I have only ever seen one car with undercarraige neons that i liked and they were on a 1969 cooper s which was smick!.

[kidafa]

I have seen one car with undercarraige neons that i liked

you didnt just say that.....

[xRHETTx]

just tap the boost gauge in where the factory one is, easy as. You'll see it on the drivers side near the firewall in the engine bay.

[urzulus]

The mods are for minimal gain yes, i primaraly wanted a boost guage and a PPPSSSSST every time i let off the throttle. I threw in the manual T because i knew the stock turbo wouldnt hold too much more than minimum (inadvertantly i now have the wastegate flutter every time i backoff).

I am playing with interior neons as i like them just above my feet, to which ill be hooking up to a turbo timer for exterior grill glow (using relays to have a legal state for only while the turbo timer is on).

Plans for the next year are pretty standard, Intercooler > Coils > Injectors> Full exhaust > Chip > Turbo (order subject to change and cash)

After the minor changes from the other day i found i got a shudder under boost (sub 10PSI) at about 4.2K revs and apparently a slight ping. Anywho nothing detrimental, as the car goes in next week for new plugs, leads, a ignition clean, fuel filter, timing and we will see if this sorts it out.

Im pretty confident my mechanic knows what he is doing as he looked after me really well with my TX5 Turbo, he already wants to make a drag car outta it. If anyone was near Ipswich id highly recomend him for any car.

[fat_stag]

just a little tip do your engin mods that you want before you get chip/tune. just so it can be tuned to them mods.

also not meening to be picky but from RB20 up(unless you have had it changed for any reason) dont run leads. they have a direct coil pack to each plug.

been looken on ebay and found theres not bad deals on new BC gold coilovers for stageas. about $1100

if your any good with a computer there was a group buy thread on here about 2 to 3 months ago and i think its been placed in another section(dont hold me to this i think its called groub buyres or bulk buyers section. will have to look further) anyway its for nistune chipping your ecu and you can take the option for the personal tuning software.

any way good luck with your build hope any of that helps.

[KiwiRS4T]

Order of mods:

Coils when and if you need them - still running stockers in mine

Exhaust first

Replacing your original fuel pump (preferably with something better) is cheap insurance.

Nistune next so that you can get the most value from exhaust and each subsequent mod.

Then save for a turbo/highflow - you don't really need injectors or front mount before you upgrade the turbo.

Front mount

injectors and afm

(quality tune can make a huge difference - get someone good).

[pixel8r]

Your boost controller connects to the nipple on the side of the intake (drivers side).

Also your vacuum hoses should now completely bypass the boost control solenoid (this is the "factory" controller if anyone is wondering).

Not sure how the turbosmart boost T works but the best manual controller I've found is the Turbotech controller off ebay (NOT JRD!!). These work very well and rather than bleed pressure like a bleed valve, they go in series, meaning they restrict pressure to the wastegate actuator. They have a ball bearing which is tensioned by a spring and will dislodge after x psi (you set this by tightening or loosening a screw). The wastegate actuator sees 0 pressure until you reach the amount of pressure required to dislodge the ball bearing inside the controller. After that the wastegate actuator immediately sees the full amount of pressure and slams open.

This has 2 benefits. (1) you (apparently) wont get boost spikes like you do with a bleed valve and (2) boost builds quicker because the wastegate does not creep open as boost builds up.

I used one of these on my s2 stagea and it worked a treat. I had a JRD one before and that one didn't work properly.

If you only want to run a few extra psi and just want to "set and forget" then the turbotech is worth a try. <$40 from ebay if they're still available. (btw I dont have anything to do with the guy who makes them. I was just really happy with the one I had)

[urzulus]

Found out what the 4.2k RPM shudder was, the Coils were shagged and couldnt perform under load.

So i went to maccas and $600 later i have splitfires! (yes i bought splitfires in maccas carpark).