Jump to content
SAU Community

Off To Japan For A Couple Of Weeks.....any Tips?


Recommended Posts

Hey ppl,

I'm off to Japan in a couple of weeks and I was just wanting to know who's been there before and whats worth checking out given the time frames I have to work with.

I'll be in Osaka for 4 days, Hakuba for 5 and Tokyo for 7.

Let me know where you've been (good or bad). Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve

When are you going?

There is the Tokyo Auto Salon in Jan. Around the 10th i think from memory.

15th - 17th of Jan which is when I'll be over there.

My two weeks in Japan on JDMST, post 60 onwards: http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread...1573&page=3

You'll need to sign up to read it.

Make sure you have a JR pass for the two weeks, I used mine a freaking lot!

Don't stress about train systems, the private ones just get the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the other end if you need to.

Also, if you are changing lines at a private station (metro etc) then make sure you dont put your ticket in an orange labeled machine (it will take it thinking you are leaving the station)

Pre book your shinkansen seats a day or two in advance so you can get a train at a decent time, however if you get on at a station at the start of the trip you can usually get a seat in a non reserved carriage.

Not all toilets in regional areas have western toilet bowls (makes an interesting event in the dunny)

Make sure you know what you want to do the day before hand, and dont be suprised if you cannot find the thing you are looking for.

People in Tokyo may say they dont speak english but a lot understand a little.

Try to work out the kanji for beed, pork, chicken, tempura, prawn etc. It helps a lot in restaurants!!!!!

Hope your single, the girls in Tokyo are f**king HAWTTTTT!

If you want to do car stuff try to get onto someone who is hooked up before you go, unless you speak the language and get a chance to stop and talk to someone who looks in the know you may be shit out of luck.

Dont be concearned with the feeling of xenophibia on the trains, Japanese dont really like having a whitie in their personal space. In restaurants they are fine serving you etc, but other than that I noticed a fair bit of racism. End of the day its their country, irony is the obsession with western culture :P

Tokyo for me was very different to the rest of the country, but Im not sure about Osaka.

Any other questions PM me.

OH and dont expect to see alot of jap performance cars around.

You will see millions of taxis, little cars like micra, and european cars.

Most of the jap performance i was was out of the cities.

And...If you like Anime check out the Ghibli museum, freaking amazing!

hm ok well as it appears your all going over there, who wants yo find me a low mount t67 kit for my rb25???? :P

From trust? No such thing, T67 comes in kits SR20 only. Can buy it separate and make a manifold, doubt it will fit, the comp cover is as big if not bigger than to T04S comp cover that comes with the GT30/35 series turbos from garrett. I managed to get a GT30 to just fit on mine, but I decided it was too close and went high mount.

Off topic sorry :D

I have only ever found 1 low mount manifold which was on ebay from jps trading on ebay....sadly before i bought it the person I told about it bought it instead....then on sold it...and it wasnt to me no doubt for much more than the cheap price it was purchased for. The t67 I'm pretty sure did fit on it.

Thems the breaks though.

Still on the hunt for the same manifold...which I doubt ill ever find :P

more off topic...sorry

a mate and i will be over there from the 6th of jan to the 27th of jan!

Tokyo Autosalon FTW!

who else will be over there... Wheezy, i think i;d like to hear more of your tips as this is my first time overseas and i feel it might be a bit of a shock when i get there.

I was there in oct last year... had a absolute ball...

Tokyo - It's pretty overwhelming at first, just try and fully immerse yourself in the culture of it.. I regret not doing that, the girl I went with was too scared do so and buggered up that part of the trip.

If you get the chance go to Kyoto there are soooo many beautiful temples there and maybe try and take a day trip to Nara, where the biggest wooden temple in the world is and HEAP of cute little deers who will turn nasty and ear your clothes once you run out of biscuits to give them.

Golden Pavillion is a must see. And you might spot a few geishas down the back streets of Kyoto if your lucky. There were plenty of other "ladies of the night" there done up to the max to entertain the business men.

I hardly saw any modified cars around, I got excited every time I did see a skyline.

If you go to Harajuku make sure you go on the weekends. Thats when all the Harajuku girls are out.

I didn't find the Japanese racist at all. Some got a little irritated trying to explain things to me because I couldn't understand but in general I found them most accommodating and patient. it pays to know a few Japanese words, especially "thank you" and "excuse me". I think I used those the most.

Otherwise just go with no expectations and it will totally blow your mind! and the girls over there are STUNNING and so fashionable.

Have a awesome time!

If you want to pick up some handy relevant Japanese easily try this -

http://www.earwormslearning.com/intro.html

http://www.earwormslearning.com/pdf/Booklet_Japanese.pdf

I've been using it and I find it works really well, I've remembered heaps of stuff and I'm pretty stupid :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...