Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lukas 33,

nice avatar, are u acquinted with them :)

hahaha no :) wish I was though. That is just a nice googley image :O

Update: Went to the mechanics. They said the car was ready to drive home. So I started to drive home real slow and to keep the revs under 3000. But to my amazement IT WOULDNT EVEN GET TO 3000! It would cough and splutter to 2.5 and then run like a bag of shit. Anyways end of story I just got a tow truck and took the car to a different mechanic. See if they can do a better job.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Look that is all well and good... however...

Vipec/PFC both have pre-formatted maps with the cold start populated etc etc. All the important/hard to configure things - made much easier

Far as i know the Microtech requires this all to be done manually from virtual scratch and so on, which would take a considerably longer amount of time.

To do cold start is a pain in the ass from all reports.

Exactly, these has minimal setup time.

The microtech has a base setting too, but cold start is miles off.

Edited by URAS
Exactly, these has minimal setup time.

The microtech has a base setting too, but cold start is miles off.

Yeh that's is exactly what I was thinking. I will see how these guys go and see the quality of the tune hopefully soon enough. I have heard good things about them from a couple of other members so hopefully they live up to the talk. Will obviously keep you guys posted on cost and time taken. I was surprised that when I rang them to let them know I would be towing a car around that they were fine with it and even waited back an hour or more for me to get there. Anyway enough chatting shit I have a load of washing to do

Cheers

Yeh that's is exactly what I was thinking. I will see how these guys go and see the quality of the tune hopefully soon enough. I have heard good things about them from a couple of other members so hopefully they live up to the talk. Will obviously keep you guys posted on cost and time taken. I was surprised that when I rang them to let them know I would be towing a car around that they were fine with it and even waited back an hour or more for me to get there. Anyway enough chatting shit I have a load of washing to do

Cheers

Luke buy a Vi-PEC and a wideband controller and tune it yourself using quicktune. Would work out about the same money. Once you learn how to tune send all the other halfwits running shops up there out of business. Make a shitload of cash, retire early, buy a Yacht and live off Lizard Island with a boat load of hotties.

Simple. :(

Luke buy a Vi-PEC and a wideband controller and tune it yourself using quicktune. Would work out about the same money. Once you learn how to tune send all the other halfwits running shops up there out of business. Make a shitload of cash, retire early, buy a Yacht and live off Lizard Island with a boat load of hotties.

Simple. :(

HMMMM lizard island ... i mean HMMM hotties

had some interesting discussions with other car fans recently RE: Vi-Pecs as a replacement ECU , there dosen't seem to be a lot known about them in the wider car enthusiast community.

Trent since you're a tuner by trade how long do YOU think it would take approximately to retune a Microtech ECU?

Luke buy a Vi-PEC and a wideband controller and tune it yourself using quicktune. Would work out about the same money. Once you learn how to tune send all the other halfwits running shops up there out of business. Make a shitload of cash, retire early, buy a Yacht and live off Lizard Island with a boat load of hotties.

Simple. :banana:

Well that would be very lovely. Love the idea of yachts and hotties :( ALSO....back on topic....I do love the Vi-PEC. I would love to buy one actually and a wideband controller :D If there just so happens to be a plug and play Vi-PEC at the right price I would love it. You could shoot me a PM about the Vi-PEC price, other info and the wideband controller if you wish :D but yes it would be lovely to be able to tune the car myself. This is my first time to a tuner/mechanic and losing my mechanic virginity like this was not what I was expecting :banana:

had some interesting discussions with other car fans recently RE: Vi-Pecs as a replacement ECU , there dosen't seem to be a lot known about them in the wider car enthusiast community.

Trent since you're a tuner by trade how long do YOU think it would take approximately to retune a Microtech ECU?

This will probably bite me on the ass. but here goes...

This is an often asked question, about most ecu's. to be honest its not so easy as the cost of tuning requires a few more than a time sheet. High horsepower car require more equipment so cost more.

For example i charge $550 for a PFC, $700 for Haltech, VIPEC, LINK etc, for cars over 350rwkw i generally charge more as it requires more equipment (i fit double external knock sensors etc).

A Touch up from somewhere else is generally a tune as im usually not happy with the base thats there... so $550

A touch up for something ive tuned previous (say after injector install etc) is $350 (up to 4 hrs)

Then there are the credit based tunes (Holden and Ford) like LS1, LS2 and XR6 which range from $950-1100 (retunes are $400 if ive got the VIN already unlocked)

Leaded fuels have a $50 surcharge as it kills the widebands quickly (2 on v8's so double)

My business has changed alot and we now operate soley around dyno tuning and development (and engine building). We dont do general mechanical, i have set it up this way so i can book in one tune a day, this leaves ample time for those tunes that dont go as planned (coilpacks, fuel pressure, boostv leaks etc). If we encounter an issue we can persevere untill its sorted without the worry holding up other jobs or having to rebook another dyno day.

So for a mictrotech i would charge $700 from scratch or $550 for a retune.

I can understand why some places charge more and i think this is fair as your paying for thier expertise, as long as thier reputation warrants the extra $$'s i would be happy to pay more.

Edited by URAS
This is an often asked question, about most ecu's. to be honest its not so easy as the cost of tuning requires a few more than a time sheet. High horsepower car require more equipment so cost more.

For example i charge $550 for a PFC, $700 for Haltech, VIPEC, LINK etc, for cars over 350rwkw i generally charge more as it requires more equipment (i fit double external knock sensors etc).

A Touch up from somewhere else is generally a tune as im usually not happy with the base thats there... so $550

A touch up for something ive tuned previous (say after injector install etc) is $350 (up to 4 hrs)

Then there are the credit based tunes (Holden and Ford) like LS1, LS2 and XR6 which range from $950-1100 (retunes are $400 if ive got the VIN already unlocked)

So for a mictrotech i would charge $700 from scratch or $550 for a retune.

I can understand why some places charge more and i think this is fair as your paying for thier expertise, as long as thier reputation warrants the extra $'s i would be happy to pay more.

Yeh well I think that pricing system seems pretty fair to me :( Yeh well I dont think they have much expertise when it comes to rb's. The main guy who was working on my car said "Isn't there something you need to do with a water or oil gallery or something to put a VL block with a skyline head? Dont you have to like plug the block?" I was a little shocked by this but just let it slide as all I really needed their brains for was doing a tune which they have done many of before. BUT expertise when it comes to tuning or working on skylines is very minimal

thats fair, I'm moreso curious from my own particular circumstance - owning a car with a Microtech LT10S and a KKR480 turbo, but looking at swapping over to a GT3076R (when funds permit), but also looking at a tune to curb the 18L/100km fuel consumption which is seriously bleeding me dry (have to drive 30km to get to Mildura and the fuel consumption is no different highway to town driving). In fairness to CRD who did the original tune, apparently climate factors are more important with MAP sensor based ecus (going from a very humid moderate climate to a very dry hot one).

thats fair, I'm moreso curious from my own particular circumstance - owning a car with a Microtech LT10S and a KKR480 turbo, but looking at swapping over to a GT3076R (when funds permit), but also looking at a tune to curb the 18L/100km fuel consumption which is seriously bleeding me dry (have to drive 30km to get to Mildura and the fuel consumption is no different highway to town driving). In fairness to CRD who did the original tune, apparently climate factors are more important with MAP sensor based ecus (going from a very humid moderate climate to a very dry hot one).

Just out of curiosity what are your AFRs?

Luke buy a Vi-PEC and a wideband controller and tune it yourself using quicktune. Would work out about the same money. Once you learn how to tune send all the other halfwits running shops up there out of business. Make a shitload of cash, retire early, buy a Yacht and live off Lizard Island with a boat load of hotties.

Simple. :D

Teach me and Lukas your secrects, we'll give you 20% of all income from tuning and then down the track you come up here and teach us how to build a 9 sec RB :(

Edited by PM-R33

here is my original dyno sheet as scanned - 18psi, standard FPR and injectors KKR 480 and LT10S, however when I tuned my EBC in at 18psi I found the injectors hitting max duty so not so sure on dyno sheet :S

digitalsignature125.jpg

Edited by bozodos

Now since it was mentioned about the ViPEC ecu and well Ive been looking at the V44 and the G4 (both plug in boards). Is their MAP sensors really limited to only 1.5 bar gauge (2.5 bar absolute)? Hey does anybody want to sell me a V88 with a plug and play adapter made up, a wideband and quicktune :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...