Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wona put a little thread togeather with all the fuel ecconomy solutions you guys have,,

so far ive gota

safc, safc2 or better again safc neo

sitc to some degree

coilpacks

opening up the exhaust.. preferably 3' cat also so it doesnt bottle neck.

what eles have we found that will improve?

obviously regular servicing, good fuel etc are all factors aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298322-the-fuel-ecconomy-thread/
Share on other sites

With factory ECUs (Un-touched Nissan engineering).

-Boost levels no higher then 7pound

-Retain Carbon/Emission Canister

-Good Heat Shield / CAI (heat soak = no power = lead foot to get her moving)

-Clean Air Flow Meter / Filter

-A Fully Operational 02 Sensor

-Drop all unnecessary weight (useless cargo)

-Lay off the throttle.

My two cents :nyaanyaa:

Tune and o2 sensor

I went from round ~350km per tank with bolt on mods and 10psi and no tune,

to ~650km per tank after nistune chip and tune and new o2 sensor!!

Obviously if I stomp on it round town I get less, but it did Melbourne to Albury on just under half a tank, including driving out of inner city Melbourne. That's over 300km!

I couldn't believe the difference.

i wona put a little thread togeather with all the fuel ecconomy solutions you guys have,,

Do a search you lazy flamin mongrel, its been covered so many times!

sitc to some degree

coilpacks

SITC to some degree? I disagree. To get the most out of your SAFC you need an SITC to add in or pull out timing as when you bend the fuel curve it also has a affect on the timing. Eg. Leaning of the air flow with advance timing (negative relation ship between the two)

Also coil packs are only going to affect it if the oem nissan ones are shagged.

Basically you want:

Easily breathing car (intake and zhorst)

Good spark (plugs and working coils)

Functioning O2 sensor

Clean fuel filter

some way to tune it all (sitc safc nisstune ect)

I think I'm needing to buy shares in BP.

RB26 is near impossible not to fang around in, so I pay dearly for the privilege.

Not complaining but its always the impossible. I want the maximum amount of power, for the least amount of fuel consumption LOL.

I think I'm needing to buy shares in BP.

RB26 is near impossible not to fang around in, so I pay dearly for the privilege.

Not complaining but its always the impossible. I want the maximum amount of power, for the least amount of fuel consumption LOL.

I hear quad rotary engines are offering that, before there even modded haha.

I'm currently running a completely stock series 2 and getting just under 530-580km around town with some spirited driving. Have a nistune to install, turbo back exhuast at the same time, and might put on a pod filter too. Will see how it goes after all that and most likly revive this thread haha. There will be a 100 000km service before then aswell... soo all fluids, spark plugs timing belt etc.

Edited by stagman

I am putting our fairly stock stag on the Dyno and I will come back and report the findings.

I bet its going to be rich as hell , and I have been harrassing the woman to get a nistune but as someone rightly noted a front mount is probably a better starting point before we go the Nistune.

On the front mount note, as is the case with the Rich, easily reached "R & R" late series 1 ECUs, fuel economy gets deadly once you install one with no engine management. I put my front mount in first as a preparation mod... in preparation for later mods. If I had my time again, I would go engine management first, but my emanage ultimate is in the post, and I have only been able to drive my car around for a collective 3 weeks since I installed the intercooler, so it's much of a muchness. Engine management before notable airflow increasing modifications FTW (If you are looking for economy).

I'll update fuel economy on the rig as soon as the emanage is installed, at the moment it is so bad that I can basically see the needle drop everytime the throttle is opened up :)

harts.

just needa learn to control your right foot, adam!

i do but it ALLWAYS seems to come on to some for off boost when i take off like 1 or 2 psi... chris can take off with like -1 or 2 lol...:)

wats the go with catalytic converters... is the stock one better than bashing it out?? ive got mixed thaughts... with the gridding in there it will direct flow well.. but slow it down aswell i think :S gutted cat or leave it?

alright,well that cat didnt fit.flanges on the wrong angle and an inch too short.

lucky the stags booked in in the morning for some exhaust work

You should have went all macgyver on it... it would have fit eventually...

After I got my boost controller and highflowed turbo etc I was getting around 15 to 20 L per 100km. When I got the 550 injectors and another tune it was pretty much 20L per 100km. Most of my trips are short and I like to boot it as soon as it has warmed up so I was filling up at around 300km!

The best economy device (and it was not intended that way) has turned out to be my new GTR 5 speed manual box. I went away for the weekend - I drive at 110km (the most you can do without getting pinged as i am a driver by trade and can't afford to lose my licence) with probably a dozen bursts up to 140 or 150 to get past traffic and a twenty minute full boost climb up a range of hills (each way) and managed 12L per 100km. I know this was on a trip but I used to get worse than 15L/100km before.

So that confirms what a lot of people think - the auto sucks gas. I find that I can drive around town mostly in 4th and 5th as it will pull steadily from 1500rev/min and goes well from 2000 rev/min even though serious power comes between 4000 and 7000 rev/min. Previously at those speeds the auto would be kicking down all the time.

On the other hand if you are not planning on lots more power the auto is great for city driving and if it is regularly serviced and not abused will (some people's bad luck not withstanding) perform well for years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...