Jump to content
SAU Community

The Fuel Ecconomy Thread

chef_stagea

By chef_stagea,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted

i wona put a little thread togeather with all the fuel ecconomy solutions you guys have,,

so far ive gota

safc, safc2 or better again safc neo

sitc to some degree

coilpacks

opening up the exhaust.. preferably 3' cat also so it doesnt bottle neck.

what eles have we found that will improve?

obviously regular servicing, good fuel etc are all factors aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298322-the-fuel-ecconomy-thread/
Share on other sites
JDM_Spirit Community Regular

JDM_Spirit

Posted
Posted

With factory ECUs (Un-touched Nissan engineering).

-Boost levels no higher then 7pound

-Retain Carbon/Emission Canister

-Good Heat Shield / CAI (heat soak = no power = lead foot to get her moving)

-Clean Air Flow Meter / Filter

-A Fully Operational 02 Sensor

-Drop all unnecessary weight (useless cargo)

-Lay off the throttle.

My two cents :nyaanyaa:

bayslideblue Collaborator

bayslideblue

Posted
Posted

Tune and o2 sensor

I went from round ~350km per tank with bolt on mods and 10psi and no tune,

to ~650km per tank after nistune chip and tune and new o2 sensor!!

Obviously if I stomp on it round town I get less, but it did Melbourne to Albury on just under half a tank, including driving out of inner city Melbourne. That's over 300km!

I couldn't believe the difference.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted
i wona put a little thread togeather with all the fuel ecconomy solutions you guys have,,

Do a search you lazy flamin mongrel, its been covered so many times!

sitc to some degree

coilpacks

SITC to some degree? I disagree. To get the most out of your SAFC you need an SITC to add in or pull out timing as when you bend the fuel curve it also has a affect on the timing. Eg. Leaning of the air flow with advance timing (negative relation ship between the two)

Also coil packs are only going to affect it if the oem nissan ones are shagged.

Basically you want:

Easily breathing car (intake and zhorst)

Good spark (plugs and working coils)

Functioning O2 sensor

Clean fuel filter

some way to tune it all (sitc safc nisstune ect)

GTRWAGON Enthusiast

GTRWAGON

Posted
Posted

I think I'm needing to buy shares in BP.

RB26 is near impossible not to fang around in, so I pay dearly for the privilege.

Not complaining but its always the impossible. I want the maximum amount of power, for the least amount of fuel consumption LOL.

stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted (edited)
I think I'm needing to buy shares in BP.

RB26 is near impossible not to fang around in, so I pay dearly for the privilege.

Not complaining but its always the impossible. I want the maximum amount of power, for the least amount of fuel consumption LOL.

I hear quad rotary engines are offering that, before there even modded haha.

I'm currently running a completely stock series 2 and getting just under 530-580km around town with some spirited driving. Have a nistune to install, turbo back exhuast at the same time, and might put on a pod filter too. Will see how it goes after all that and most likly revive this thread haha. There will be a 100 000km service before then aswell... soo all fluids, spark plugs timing belt etc.

Edited by stagman
ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

I am putting our fairly stock stag on the Dyno and I will come back and report the findings.

I bet its going to be rich as hell , and I have been harrassing the woman to get a nistune but as someone rightly noted a front mount is probably a better starting point before we go the Nistune.

stageaharts Community Regular

stageaharts

Posted
Posted

On the front mount note, as is the case with the Rich, easily reached "R & R" late series 1 ECUs, fuel economy gets deadly once you install one with no engine management. I put my front mount in first as a preparation mod... in preparation for later mods. If I had my time again, I would go engine management first, but my emanage ultimate is in the post, and I have only been able to drive my car around for a collective 3 weeks since I installed the intercooler, so it's much of a muchness. Engine management before notable airflow increasing modifications FTW (If you are looking for economy).

I'll update fuel economy on the rig as soon as the emanage is installed, at the moment it is so bad that I can basically see the needle drop everytime the throttle is opened up :)

harts.

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just needa learn to control your right foot, adam!

i do but it ALLWAYS seems to come on to some for off boost when i take off like 1 or 2 psi... chris can take off with like -1 or 2 lol...:)

wats the go with catalytic converters... is the stock one better than bashing it out?? ive got mixed thaughts... with the gridding in there it will direct flow well.. but slow it down aswell i think :S gutted cat or leave it?

FR33K Rising Star

FR33K

Posted
Posted
alright,well that cat didnt fit.flanges on the wrong angle and an inch too short.

lucky the stags booked in in the morning for some exhaust work

You should have went all macgyver on it... it would have fit eventually...

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

After I got my boost controller and highflowed turbo etc I was getting around 15 to 20 L per 100km. When I got the 550 injectors and another tune it was pretty much 20L per 100km. Most of my trips are short and I like to boot it as soon as it has warmed up so I was filling up at around 300km!

The best economy device (and it was not intended that way) has turned out to be my new GTR 5 speed manual box. I went away for the weekend - I drive at 110km (the most you can do without getting pinged as i am a driver by trade and can't afford to lose my licence) with probably a dozen bursts up to 140 or 150 to get past traffic and a twenty minute full boost climb up a range of hills (each way) and managed 12L per 100km. I know this was on a trip but I used to get worse than 15L/100km before.

So that confirms what a lot of people think - the auto sucks gas. I find that I can drive around town mostly in 4th and 5th as it will pull steadily from 1500rev/min and goes well from 2000 rev/min even though serious power comes between 4000 and 7000 rev/min. Previously at those speeds the auto would be kicking down all the time.

On the other hand if you are not planning on lots more power the auto is great for city driving and if it is regularly serviced and not abused will (some people's bad luck not withstanding) perform well for years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...