Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Its always sad to give up a car that still manages to give you a wood every day but so is life. I am looking to sell my R32 due to a number of personal reasons (travel, work, house) and in turn buy a cheaper car. I am the second owner of the car in australia, the first being the gent who personally imported it for the purpose of selling it. I have owned the car for approximately 10 months and have had no problems apart from general maintenance tasks due to its age (clutch, sparkies etc)

Details are:

  • Gunmetal grey 1993 Skyline R32 GTS-t
  • Manual 5spd
  • approx 106,000 kms
  • dark tint
  • GTR front bar, side skirts - rear wing has been removed but is available, although aged
  • 16" Kruger chrome 5 spoke wheels
  • Blitz BOV
  • Hybrid front mount intercooler w/custom piping. Core is 600x300x76 (one month old)
  • Short shifter
  • Greddy Profec B Electronic boost controller
  • HKS Turbo timer
  • Apex'i boost gauge (blue and red illumination)
  • G'Reddy exhaust cam gear
  • HKS Purple springs
  • HKS cat back exhaust
  • Maganaflow 3" dump pipe / front pipe
  • Alarm

The body is straight. No accident history apart from a recent carpark mishap in which a p-plater reversed into my rear bumper. The bumper structure hasnt been damaged, the paint has simply cracked off and the support clip that holds the bumper has bent. I will have this fixed up by her insurance before finalising a sale. The front bar has a few grazes and naturally is showing its age in some corners. There are a few minor pin dents

The aircon requires either a new compressor or recondition the existing one as it was noisy. The system has been gassed about a year ago.

Interior is in great condition and what appears to be a non-smokers car. No smell of smoke, very clean ashtrays and no cig burns. No rips or tears...minimal seat wear, and all skyline floor mats.

The car has been serviced every 4000-5000 Kms

Oil used every time is Valvoline XLD Plus

Always run on BP Ultimate

Sparks changed 1000 kms ago

Timing belt changed at 95,000kms

Clutch changed at 95,000kms

Brakepads replaced 2000 kms ago

Brand new battery 2 weeks ago.

UPDATED PICS***** http://members.iinet.net.au/~avram/r32/index.htm

asking price $18.5k. Will consider trade for a considerably cheaper car.

Please note exterior pics will be taken soon...sorry the car is very dirty from next doors construction . :)

[email protected]

0403 537 942

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29855-fs-perth-r32-gts-t-manual/
Share on other sites

13_devil.

As the original post says, just personal reasons. Going for a bit of change in life, current job is being outsourced (IT sux) and wanting to eliminate some ccard stress before i go travel again. I will sell and get a cheaper car.

hey. never really thought about it...$500? mainly cos the ones i want to get next are polycarbonate (more $$) and its not really worth me selling the plates unless i make some cash.

i really dont think any plate is worth any more than that. The cost of them from the lic dept is ridiculous in the first place

sorry. wouldnt have a clue on the shipping to syd. Can anyone else answer this one? Thats cool..i can say it here as its in my orig post - There have been no problems with the car, only maintenance dealings such as the original nissan clutch replaced which lasted 95,000kms, sparkies, timing belt etcetc.

thanks memphis (and i got the plates..thx )

dr00 - they do look so much better :D but im not really interested in a swap unless the other car is considerably cheaper. Sounds like u have a nice hybrid there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...