Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

picked it up for $8,000 and has 80,000kms real (not wound back from japan)

Engine: rb25det with pod & BOV

Exhaust: stock 3''

Suspension: stock

Wheels: 20" black with chrome lip

Modifications: gtr rear wing, booster controller (11 psi)

Stereo Audio / Visual: kenwood double din head deck

Estimated Power: i would be guessing but 153kws at the wheels (correct me if im wrong)

post-68806-1259717040_thumb.jpg

post-68806-1259717054_thumb.jpg

post-68806-1259717078_thumb.jpg

post-68806-1259717089_thumb.jpg

post-68806-1259717098_thumb.jpg

post-68806-1259717112_thumb.jpg

Edited by mbooma
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298628-finally-got-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

Hey mate congrats on the new car!

I can't beleive how much you picked it up for. I have not been keeping track on the market lately, quite amazed.

Well have fun with it, and be prepared to keep that wallet open once the mod bug bites...

Cheers

Good buy, you forgot to mention sunroof.....

if its running 11psi i would probably at the very least put an r34gtt side mount intercooler or better.... just for added piece of mind...

Correct me I'm wrong, but I'm sure you have had that Skyline for a while :)

Also, I'm pretty sure I have seen you at West Gosford Maccas once or twice :laugh:

matt you would of seen it at west gosford maccas .... mitch hardly ever comes out anymore ...... and i told him yesterday to regester on here for info about his 33

its a nice looking ride ........ mitch give me a call if you want to come out tonight then we can cruise in to the sau meet up ........

picked it up for $8,000 and has 80,000kms real (not wound back from japan)

Engine: rb25det with pod & BOV

Exhaust: stock 3''

Suspension: stock

Wheels: 20" black with chrome lip

Modifications: gtr rear wing, booster controller (11 psi)

Stereo Audio / Visual: kenwood double din head deck

Estimated Power: i would be guessing but 153kws at the wheels (correct me if im wrong)

... nice looking car ... great price ! ... it wasnt long ago that 8 grand would only get you an intercooler/power fc/4 s-hand wheels & 2 seats !! ... now you get a whole car :blink:

... enjoy ... :D ...

... as a matter of interest what does the sticker on top of the timing belt cover say ? ....

... nice looking car ... great price ! ... it wasnt long ago that 8 grand would only get you an intercooler/power fc/4 s-hand wheels & 2 seats !! ... now you get a whole car :)

... enjoy ... :huh: ...

... as a matter of interest what does the sticker on top of the timing belt cover say ? ....

look exactly the same as the sticker on my timing belt, should say 100,000k service.

look exactly the same as the sticker on my timing belt, should say 100,000k service.

..... thats exactly what i was implying .... if its got that sticker its done 100,000 klms .... you might be lucky & it hasnt done many more .... nevertheless not too worry itll be good for many many more if you service it often ... :) ...

It doesn't have a clutch fluid reservoir :)

. . . thats cool . . . the RB25DET AUTO is still pretty gutsy . . . it looks in good nic . . . 8 grands on the high side of round about right for a clean one . . . :down: . . .

. . . though i must admit id be terrified of hitting a pot hole with 20in rims . . . not a lot of rubber there between the rim & the road !!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...