Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yew, i asked the misses for than xmas..

"Keep thinking tho!! At least your prices are coming down, first $700 pressies now $400, only one more try to get it right it seems :ninja:"

first one was a new snowboard.. second was the sways.. maybe i'll just get the rear sway?

Yew, i asked the misses for than xmas..

"Keep thinking tho!! At least your prices are coming down, first $700 pressies now $400, only one more try to get it right it seems :ninja: "

first one was a new snowboard.. second was the sways.. maybe i'll just get the rear sway?

what sort of snow board are you after Andrew? Remember what I sell.

Lib tech trs btx 159 2010 model

0910Lib_TRS_btx-d.jpg

wasnt sure you did libtech tho. and 550usd or so when i go there..

No we do APO... sorry

see link http://www.apo-snow.com/site/index.php

Edited by andy65b
  • 1 month later...

I thought I'd dig this thread up a little as its somewhat relevant to what I need at the moment.

Is this the BC kit that was mentioned earlier? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Im looking to get either new springs or a coilover setup for my recently purchased baby M35, however Im doing it for the opposite reason to most; my car is sitting too low for me ! Id say the front lip is about 8cm off the ground and Im making far too much contact with every day obstacles, add in to the equation that I cant even get it up my drive way and it starts to make a little sense.

Ive got a few guys here in Adelaide chasing up parts for me, but I figured some of you might have suggestions as to an easy way to get my ride height up to something closer to standard. Is a new set of coilovers going to be the easiest way to get it done or are there some 'standard' springs out there which will actually fit properly and raise it up a little?

I thought I'd dig this thread up a little as its somewhat relevant to what I need at the moment.

Is this the BC kit that was mentioned earlier? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Im looking to get either new springs or a coilover setup for my recently purchased baby M35, however Im doing it for the opposite reason to most; my car is sitting too low for me ! Id say the front lip is about 8cm off the ground and Im making far too much contact with every day obstacles, add in to the equation that I cant even get it up my drive way and it starts to make a little sense.

Ive got a few guys here in Adelaide chasing up parts for me, but I figured some of you might have suggestions as to an easy way to get my ride height up to something closer to standard. Is a new set of coilovers going to be the easiest way to get it done or are there some 'standard' springs out there which will actually fit properly and raise it up a little?

Hi Dunc, I recently fitted a set of BC BR coilovers to my Stagea, these were updated to correct some issues with the earlier designs. Most of the issues have been sorted, leaving you only having to re-use your original rear shock top mount. If you do buy, ensure that what you're buying is updated, not old stock, otherwise you'll have issues. The update is from September 09 onwards.

Regarding ride height, the BR coilovers that I bought could easily be set at factory height, as the rear springs are now longer; there were no issues fitting the fronts originally. The ride is quite nice and the finish is quite neat for the dollars you pay.

Hope this helps, Dale.

Hi Dunc, I recently fitted a set of BC BR coilovers to my Stagea, these were updated to correct some issues with the earlier designs. Most of the issues have been sorted, leaving you only having to re-use your original rear shock top mount. If you do buy, ensure that what you're buying is updated, not old stock, otherwise you'll have issues. The update is from September 09 onwards.

Regarding ride height, the BR coilovers that I bought could easily be set at factory height, as the rear springs are now longer; there were no issues fitting the fronts originally. The ride is quite nice and the finish is quite neat for the dollars you pay.

Hope this helps, Dale.

Hey Dale, Thats fantastic news - thankyou! If my mechanics aren't able to find anything I'll let the know about the BC BR's and go from there. Fingers crossed they do source something locally so I can get it done asap though ;)

  • 2 months later...
Hey Dale, Thats fantastic news - thankyou! If my mechanics aren't able to find anything I'll let the know about the BC BR's and go from there. Fingers crossed they do source something locally so I can get it done asap though :)

Did you source anything locally? I am wanting to upgrade the suspension too and Iam in Adelaide. Who is fitting the suspension for you?

Cheers

Also, which ones from JustJap to buy?

BR Type RS Series or V1 Design VS Series ?

  • 5 weeks later...
Did you source anything locally? I am wanting to upgrade the suspension too and Iam in Adelaide. Who is fitting the suspension for you?

Cheers

Also, which ones from JustJap to buy?

BR Type RS Series or V1 Design VS Series ?

I ended up puttin in V35 springs (These are the same as 350z springs), but Im still trying to work out how to get more height - my body kit just sits damn low. front and back is at ~12cm or so now, and whilst it makes a huge difference theres still a lot of stuff I cant negotiate without scraping. The BR's are the ones to go with if you're buying from teh BC range, however they wont get me any higher than stock.

I just had my local mechanics fit the suspension, its all pretty straightforward / standard :cool:

I ended up puttin in V35 springs (These are the same as 350z springs), but Im still trying to work out how to get more height - my body kit just sits damn low. front and back is at ~12cm or so now, and whilst it makes a huge difference theres still a lot of stuff I cant negotiate without scraping. The BR's are the ones to go with if you're buying from teh BC range, however they wont get me any higher than stock.

I just had my local mechanics fit the suspension, its all pretty straightforward / standard :ermm:

I have some standard AR-X springs if you need em....lol

I have some standard AR-X springs if you need em....lol

The AR-X springs should sit me up ~40mm compared to stock, yeah? If so - definitely keen to give them a whirl! :down: I'll shoot you a PM.

Edited by Dunc
The AR-X springs should sit me up ~40mm compared to stock, yeah? If so - definitely keen to give them a whirl! :P I'll shoot you a PM.

please tell me you are kidding? do you want to drive a boat?

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...