Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This car is seriously IMMAC!! One of the best 34 gtrs i have ever seen in person.

I drooled for so long when it rocked up for the photoshoot..

Whoever buys this will be damn lucky!! Wish i had the cash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4981234
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Justin - yes base model GTR , I Have previously owned a 99 model v- spec and honestly i could not tell the difference besides rear diffuser and mfd display , other then that drives the same

Ah ok then fair enough, just wanting to ask coz of the Vspec II Nür badge on the back, that's all :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4982879
Share on other sites

Ok Pm's Replied ,

looks like wrong time to sell no one has funds , purchasing a new car early next year so this car is sitting in garage awaiting new owner , please no stupid offers this car is worth more then what it is advertised and ive driven many gtr's and they dont drive half as good as this one .

forgot to mention hidden oil catch can also was installed .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4999506
Share on other sites

F*ck me! that's hot. Very impressive and clean looking GTR. I know someone who just bought a vspec 2 who would be kicking himself that he didn't buy this instead :(

ps. you have an Evo X and Fezza 360 as well? :rant: u have toooo much money haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5000424
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Are you JOKING me

This car is still for sale?????

I soooooo surprised that no one has snapped up this car..

Bargin Price and the car looks stunning.

Sorry to hear that no one has the funds

Anyways good luck with the sale Moey someone will sure to pic up this bargin soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5014837
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
My honest opinion is that the price is still a bit too high. Taking out some mods and bringing the price way down will attract more interests.

hey mate ,

your totally right car is WAY WAY WAY overpriced , what was i thinking when i advertised it for this much .

i just want to ask you want thing and i think everyone wants to know this

WHAT DRUGS ARE YOU ON AND WERE CAN I BUY SOME YOUR OBVIOUSLY TAKING SOMETHING NON OF US HAVE ACCESS TO .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5036503
Share on other sites

Hahah ok so let me get this straight. The standard 34gtrs that are going for 45k are ok, but one with factory vspec2 interior, nismo rims, coilovers, and evey add on done without having to pull the motor down, for 10k extra is overpiced? Hahaha not to mention the fact the engine bay looks standard so even cops won't bother you. Mate that peace of mind Alone makes it worth every cent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5036534
Share on other sites

OK firstly, pm's are best for pricing advice not on the forums for all to see...

Rocklee im sure you think your doing the best thing by the seller, but your not...

Please keep your advice to pm or dont post it at all, thanks in advance...

There are rules on this also, you should familiarize your self with these when you get a chance...

Personally I think the car at face value seems to be a very realistic price...

In saying that PM sent in relation to the car for myself...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5041974
Share on other sites

hey mate ,

your totally right car is WAY WAY WAY overpriced , what was i thinking when i advertised it for this much .

i just want to ask you want thing and i think everyone wants to know this

WHAT DRUGS ARE YOU ON AND WERE CAN I BUY SOME YOUR OBVIOUSLY TAKING SOMETHING NON OF US HAVE ACCESS TO .

I gave a very reasonable suggestion, if you don't like what I said take it up through PM otherwise I'm still a customer, get it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5042109
Share on other sites

OK firstly, pm's are best for pricing advice not on the forums for all to see...

Rocklee im sure you think your doing the best thing by the seller, but your not...

Please keep your advice to pm or dont post it at all, thanks in advance...

There are rules on this also, you should familiarize your self with these when you get a chance...

Personally I think the car at face value seems to be a very realistic price...

In saying that PM sent in relation to the car for myself...

I understand Col, my apologees, its a nice car GL with the sale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299144-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-5042116
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...