Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/result...home&Nne=15

There already seems to be a number of 2nd hand low kilometre R35’s now on the market, both ADM and JDM’s. Is the car not living up to expectations, are the running costs a problem or did people’s egos write cheques their bank manager was unwilling to cash?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There's nothing new in this phenomenon. People with the money wish to own one for a short time then move it on without tearing up too much.

The expected loss is likely less than a weeks hire. And you'll note only six of those listing are private sellers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4975991
Share on other sites

Fark - one of them looks just like my car!! :laugh:

I put mine on the market last week simply because I wasn't using it enough (I basically was just driving to work in it each day). And I figured it was a waste for what I was using it for and something more practical was in order. Because if I ever wanted some track fun I used the R34.

But then I took it away on the weekend (figured I'd have one last fling) and have remember just how awesome it actually is. So now I'm thinking I'm going to change my mind and keep it again. I'll give it a week for the "high" to come down and re-assess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4976113
Share on other sites

so much for all the predictions that they'd be dirt cheap in 12 months time. it' now been 2 years since they were released in japan and the first grey import models were in motion and the cheapest one i saw on that carsales search above was a grey import model with 8,000kms on it and asking a whopping $145,499. not that much cheaper than you could have picked up a brand new import model for nearly 2 years ago with 50kms on it.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4976131
Share on other sites

Interesting. There's some real cheap JDM models hanging around the Japanese auctions, even after LCT is added. Seem like good value pickups if you're into imports.

EDIT: On a side note, it's also common for new models in demand not to see much depreciation for some time, particularly if the latest version has no major changes since the the first. I remember the new Kawasaki Ninja 250R motorcycles were selling for above their dealer RRP in second hand private sale simply because the waiting list for a new one was 6 months long.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4976150
Share on other sites

Interesting. There's some real cheap JDM models hanging around the Japanese auctions, even after LCT is added. Seem like good value pickups if you're into imports.

EDIT: On a side note, it's also common for new models in demand not to see much depreciation for some time, particularly if the latest version has no major changes since the the first. I remember the new Kawasaki Ninja 250R motorcycles were selling for above their dealer RRP in second hand private sale simply because the waiting list for a new one was 6 months long.

Agree wholeheartedly. I sold the first of the 2003 "non bug eye" STis for barely $3000 less than what I paid for it after 12 months simply because stuff all were for sale 2nd hand and if u wanted one and didn't want to pay for a new one you didn't have much choice. This totally changed 4 years later when there were heaps for sale 2nd hand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4976464
Share on other sites

I think Nissan have done right by R35 owners to not supersede (bar minor issue fixes) the R35 with a major update model ala 350Z/370Z. Whether they mean to or not (I'm sure expense involved plays a part)...provided they don't change anything major in the next couple of years your vehicle values should remain fairly high on the second hand market. Not that you want to sell right :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4976568
Share on other sites

A few of the cars on there have been for sale for more then a couple of months now because they're just simply over priced!

150K before stamp duty is a fair price for an ADM with less then 10,000 klm's on it and about 130K for a JDM. Anyone paying anymore then this in the current climent should check themselves into the local funny farm and anyone asking more then this, i'm sorry but i'm afraid you've got your hand on it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4977808
Share on other sites

Interesting. There's some real cheap JDM models hanging around the Japanese auctions, even after LCT is added. Seem like good value pickups if you're into imports.

EDIT: On a side note, it's also common for new models in demand not to see much depreciation for some time, particularly if the latest version has no major changes since the the first. I remember the new Kawasaki Ninja 250R motorcycles were selling for above their dealer RRP in second hand private sale simply because the waiting list for a new one was 6 months long.

Pretty sure you can only import JDM R35's with very few km's on the clock, aka new and built in 2007-08 only. second hand R35's in my understanding won't be allowed until after Nissan Australia stops selling them. Don't know the rules 100% just what I read on the boards. My understanding is second hand R35's out of Japan are only good for track cars & parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4978230
Share on other sites

Pretty sure you can only import JDM R35's with very few km's on the clock, aka new and built in 2007-08 only. second hand R35's in my understanding won't be allowed until after Nissan Australia stops selling them. Don't know the rules 100% just what I read on the boards. My understanding is second hand R35's out of Japan are only good for track cars & parts.

So in other words, the ones already in the country are the only ones able to come in anymore? Can anyone confirm this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4978357
Share on other sites

No - but the only ones that can come in still have to be built before any of the Oz delivered ones started arriving (so pre April 2009). And they must still be brand new (or just have delivery kms on them).

That's no different to how its ever been.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4978418
Share on other sites

for all intents and purposes it's currently impossible to import an R35 from japan for legal road use in oz. it would need to be brand new and I mean brand spanking new (bought from a dealer) BUT it would have to be an 07/08 model (ie built before nissan started selling them here). on top of that there is only one place I know of with compliance and you would need to check with them if they are still willing (or able) to comply a car for you. Nissan are very much on top of this and they will put pressure on DOTARS to have your car inspected on the wharf before it's cleared and any evidence of it being a 'used' car (ie previous owner on paperwork, any marks etc) would see it get knocked back.

the only viable import options at the moment are:

race/rally use (but can never be complied or road registered)

personal import (you need to be living in japan, with the car, and have it there registered in your name for at least 12 months and there is no way of 'fudging' this one, must be legit)\

I would be surprised if there are any more SEVS imports. there may be 1 or 2 more that come in that have been display stock at a dealer or something since 2007 and not been driven at all but even that is pretty unlikely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299325-2nd-hand-r35s/#findComment-4978427
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...