Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bosch HEC-716. I have been using them for about 7 years. I went to get some new ones for the first time last year and the design has changed, not even close to how they were. The pic is of the new rail. The plug leads are cut down to suit, so don't think you can just buy them off the shelf. I want to remake it and should beable to get someone like QLD Ign leads to make me a set. That is if they are long enough to fit their machine.

This is the old style HEC-716 wher I had an even shorter plug lead. While it was compact and neat it was a royal pain to swap a set of pulgs in a hurry between rounds. Disreguard the 3L sticker, stiring the pot for some scrutineers hahahaha.

Picture001.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Work and life have been getting in the way of being able to spend much time in the shed. Easter has been tagged as car time!!!! Yesterday I stripped back as much as i could out of the engine bay and got stuck into seam welding. I've done this a few times now and find it to be very beneficial if you are going to be doing much track work. Seam sealer is a pain because no matter how I try it is always still down in the join, messing up the first little bit of every weld. Bang some heat in, give it a mo, and plough on. I re-seam sealed it all up so the will be no rust concern in 10 years time. By the time I had given it all a rub over with surface prep, prepsol and had the basic masking done, the sun had gone down and taken the light for my spray boot with it.

Picture023.jpg

Picture021.jpg

Picture022.jpg

Back in the shed I wanted to make sure the Fglass guards ,which have been copied off my my race 33, fit up properly. Some little fixups needed.

Picture024.jpg

Painted this morning, primer on any exposed bits first, then satin black. Now, before anyone says, "Should have primed it all rar rar rar" Its a srteet car that will get flogged with regular and absolute gay abandon on tracks. ITS NOT A SHOW PRINCESS.

Picture032.jpg

Picture033.jpg

Picture034.jpg

Just waiting now for some help to push it back in the shed.... when the paint has set a little more though. Want to get the guards and bumper painted to day as well. Tomorrow I should be able to get the motor box and exhaust back in and stone guard the inner of the front guard area. Monday get the bodywork fitted and anything else that has popped up. I've got tues and wed off and planing to take it to a mates panel shop to roll and flare the rear arches. I don't have cool enough toys for that... Yet.

Its definitely an area that I'll be looking at when I rebuild Gentle's front end but that will not be for a few months yet, deff have some ideas to run through. Need to focus on this beast first.

Sat arvo Sara the fantastic spray painting and panel beating champion girlfriend of mine who I love, got the spray putty on and left it to harden overnight. Had to hang it some where.

Picture035.jpg

and today She put the black GLOSS on. I love her sooooooo much!!!! Thank you.

Picture036.jpg

For the record, my painting is not very good. On the result of my first attempt I was told that the finish looked like I had painted it at the beach on a windy day. Not from Sara I must add, she has more tact than that.

It is soooooo close to going for RWC. first I need to pump the rear guards so I going to a mates panel shop tomorrow and wed for some guided hammer wielding!

the motor n box went in today and got everything in the engine bay pretty much completed. The new turbo sits back about 20mm and has made some issues for the piping. Still need to get the fuel system in the boot sorted, that will happen over the next week or so...... I betting on so. The guards and bumper are on properly too now, that took longer that I expected. Looks good though me thinks. a long easter weekend well spent.

Picture.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...