Jump to content
SAU Community

Size Of Hose From Boost Controller, Makes A Difference?

DriftinThruLife

By DriftinThruLife,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
Posted

Hi People.

My question is, does the diameter or width of the hose which goes from the boost controller (manual) to turbo make a difference?

I have been changing some factory hoses with silicon hoses, and for this particular hose... when i took it out and looked at the inner size of the hose (the hole) it didn't exactly match up with the sizes of the silicon hoses I had.

I tried putting a smaller size (this was very tight, and I took it off just incase it would split at where I had managed to connect it) and I tried a size that was slightly larger.

When i pressed the accelerator, the boost guage seemed to react the same for the thinner or wider hose.From this I assumed it didn't really matter.

When I started the engine though...it sounded a bit different. It didn't seem to be as loud. When I took it for a drive....(well it's kinda hard to describe) but the boost guage was behaving the same (if not going up higher) but the car seemed to lag slightly?

SO BASICALLY, Does the inner diammeter/width of the hoses going in or out of the boost controller make a difference? I assume it would, as it's controlling the air pressure right? So a wider hose would have the same amount of air at less pressure?

Bare in mind I have next to zero knowledge about turbos. Thanks in advance for any help.

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

yeah there is probably a reason why all good boost controllers come with different sized lines . 6 mm for boost sorce and to solenoid and 4 mm for boost reference signal

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Once the line is under pressure there is no difference. It's the difference in time it takes to pressurize that line that is important. The difference in time it takes is the amount of volume between the two sources that air has to occupy. (Think of a bigger example as intercooler piping and the turbo needing to pressurize all the piping before it gets to the intake).

For a boost controller this can mean a spike if it takes to long for the line to pressurize and then the boost controller to bleed off the air it needs. We are talking fractions of a second in such a small line. So if a line is really long or really large in diameter, it can make a difference and cause a spike that would not have occured if the line was shorter or smaller. With the diameter of most vacuum lines used for boost controllers, you aren't talking much. For example going from a 4mm hose to a 6mm hose would be the equivalent volume as say another extra 5cm in line of the 4mm hose (For example. If you want to do the calcs for the exact amount of a given length you can)

So in other words unless you are using 1/2" vacuum line for your boost controller it aint going to change sweet f**k all.

Keep your lines short is the main thing, dont have them looping half way around the engine bay and then into the car through the dash if you want your boost controller to work well.

Edited by PM-R33
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It can make a difference. Length indeed makes a difference as well. I've seen it first hand.

Length and diameter over say 2-3 meters (seen people hide bleeders on drivers side of the engine bay) etc etc.

Being the hose gets hotter and expands more and more the larger base you start from.

Well... that's my guess anyway :)

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

depends on how thick the walls are. the thicker, the better it will perform in terms of being prone to kinking and closing up on itself in vacuum. ive seen plenty of the thin walled hoses close up on themselves.

size matters boys :)

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm, you know what...I reckon I'll put up a pic of the 2 hoses side-by-side....then i'll let you decide.

SECURITY...that's a scary a** display pic you have man...wouldnt wanna meet him in a dark alley.

Lukas33....mmm that's a sexy a** display pic you have man....they wouldn't wanna meet me in a dark alley.

Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
haha sorry mate. had to.

as long as theyre short they should be no problem.

HAHAHA YES!!! i was going to point that out but thought I should keep my serious hat on. Then you went and did it :) Top work :laugh:

Yeh well after your line busting like that Phil Im surprised you didn't recommend it, Must admit though it does make you engine bay look the sex.

Yeh I have a Profec B Spec II aswell and its about 20cm from cooler pipe to solenoid. So its very short. So as long as its long enough to fit in the gap but not too long as it doesn't get pressurised/hard quick enough AND as long as it is thick enough. It should hold any load/boost without spiking nicely

Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
pussy, shoulda kept stuck into it! :ninja:

HAHAHA Stock internal 25 on 2.5 bar......harden up phil.

He is not joking about everything being braid either. He has braided electrical wiring going to the ceiling light. He has even made a steering wheel cover out of braid. Rumor has it that he has redone all the plumbing in his house with braid.

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm looks like I have to change it back or get another one anyway.

It started making a high pitched whitsling noise today. And I'm guessing that's either because of a hole in it, or crack, or the plastic ties aren't tight enough but yeh....some sort of leak.

Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...