Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Stuart,

I'm using the Nulon 10W/40 for the motor and Nulon for the gearbox. The gearbox one is for Matic J(As well as others). Diff oil should be the same as an R34 GTR me thinks.

You need about 5lt's for the motor and about 8lt's for a fully drained gearbox.

cheers

so Matic J Synthetic for the Auto and transfer, 75w90 GL4 front diff and 80w90 LSD GL5 for th rear diff.....

This sound OK?

Transfer case is same atf as gearbox and steering. Get a 20L drum as gearbox will take about 14L - you need to pump it out via the cooler pipes to get it all.
  • 4 months later...

Any updates on how this went?

Looking to do the same. Thinking of http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synt...smission_Fluid/ in the auto and Red Line 'Lightweight Shockproof' for the diffs.

Comments?

Any updates on how this went?

Looking to do the same. Thinking of http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synt...smission_Fluid/ in the auto and Red Line 'Lightweight Shockproof' for the diffs.

Comments?

Exactly what I have in my car.

No complaints whatsoever :happy:

Good to hear.

So how much do I need? Is the 20l comment above accurate?

How much of the Red Line?

Thanks

3 bottles of Redline Lightweight Shockproof will leave you with some left over. Get them from for damn good pricing :)

You will need around 8.3L of trans oil if filling from empty.... if flushing, Nissan use 10.5 on their machine.

As an aside, you can also use the Nulon trans fluid for the ATTESSA and power steering (Nissan use Matic D for these)

Edited by iamhe77
Good to hear.

So how much do I need? Is the 20l comment above accurate?

How much of the Red Line?

Thanks

On the gearbox without flushing it completely you will be hard pressed getting 5lt's of the old oil out even with twin after market transcoolers( :))....so 5lt's if your just want to change what's in there without flushing. If not I think it's about 7lt's or 8lt's plus a flush....IMO unless your oil is cooked I would not bother with a complete flush.

As for the diff's.....haven't done em yet so.....I guess someone else can answer that.

I had a 60% blocked radiator for a while, so I wouldn't rule out cooked.

Got details on the after market oil cooler? I'm noticing the gearbox seems to start hunting a little bit after getting heated up on a long highway climb. Wouldn't mind getting a bigger cooler in there if it isn't a huge expensive job.

I had a 60% blocked radiator for a while, so I wouldn't rule out cooked.

Got details on the after market oil cooler? I'm noticing the gearbox seems to start hunting a little bit after getting heated up on a long highway climb. Wouldn't mind getting a bigger cooler in there if it isn't a huge expensive job.

Any trans cooler will be of benefit.

Personally I am running a PWR "6-cylinder" unit and have mounted it on a bracket behind the grill as you can see below (obv without the grill).

IMG_2130r.jpg

There are plenty of cheap trans coolers. Just note that if you are using a 3/8" transmission hose, you will need to make sure of the connection to the radiator cooler as I believe they are slightly smaller than 3/8".

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...