Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have seen new basically new non import cars where the numbers don't line up

always go by the condition of the car

have a customer evo here with 40k on the clock , clearly the car has done double that

was purchased at auction with 40k on it

and this is not an import thing , the bunky yard dealers around here do it for the local stock . A guy comes around with a briefcase and does it on the yard.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Anyone used ...http://odometer-check.com/

Looks like a worthwhile service.

It looks as if it's dedicated to Japanese cars too; that the E-Check can trace back to the previous car registration odo reading and not just as the car arrives for auction. Any comments from the more learned?

So, i got curious and pulled out the bunch of papers that came with the car, i can't read japanese, the kanji hanging around didn't help matters, knowing a few words out of a few hundred words just made me more confused.

Then I found 3 sheets of paper, apparently there's some bi annually check the car owners in japan have to do, and i found the most recent one and it has 13,543kms on it, with a weird date that i do not recognise.

I've attached a picture of the date + kms reading. Now, can anybody tell me how does Year 19, Month 10, Day 30 relate to the date system used by the rest of the world?

post-61332-1274686558_thumb.jpg

30 October 2007, that was the mileage :( I take it you paid pretty decent money for it :ermm:

so the months and days are the same, how does year 19 translate to 2007? Is it the reign of some emperor?

Well for an N/A supra, it was actually pretty cheap. Compared to the others i saw on carsales, so i just got it.

I'm in the game of restoring CBR 250RR and I find the same thing with these bikes. Most (if not all imports) have been wound back

I don't get involved in this sort of act as a moral stance although it' so easy to do. With the bikes there are so many tell tale signs that indicate how many klms are on it.

There are marks for example on bolts that have been tighten from factory and this helps me identify the legitimate ones from the bad ones.

What sort of things can you look for in cars for example that would be a true indication of klms even after the dealers magic shiny spray stuff?

For example, would worn lettering on wiper stalks or worn pedal rubbers give you a rough idea on klms?

I'm in the game of restoring CBR 250RR and I find the same thing with these bikes. Most (if not all imports) have been wound back

I don't get involved in this sort of act as a moral stance although it' so easy to do. With the bikes there are so many tell tale signs that indicate how many klms are on it.

There are marks for example on bolts that have been tighten from factory and this helps me identify the legitimate ones from the bad ones.

What sort of things can you look for in cars for example that would be a true indication of klms even after the dealers magic shiny spray stuff?

For example, would worn lettering on wiper stalks or worn pedal rubbers give you a rough idea on klms?

Brake pedals & seat wear are one area you can look for. As far as warn wiper stalks, the lettering on mine is fading/smearing due to the paint not being very long lasting. So in my case it's not an indication of kms, rather just a defect in the materials of the car. So you have to try and decide if things are wear & tear from high mileage or from sloppy materials used.

I was working on a bike today in my workshop and I was having a good look at the dash for signs of it being tampered. All the screws at the back looked like they have never been touched until I noticed a bracket to hold the wiring in the wrong spot.

I gave the dash a clean and you can see a smudge mark on the inside of the glass.

I wonder how that got there?

Actually, I think you'll find a lot more tampering happens at the Australian end than the Japanese end...

Agree. All the tampering I have found out about has been done in Australia.

And I've bought a genuine low kms car from a Japanese dealer once, too.

i hear those bloody japs eat human flesh and conquer other countries with a ruthless regeime and get up to all SORTS of mischief.

seriously bro why the racism?

Real Name: Jamie

Joined: Yesterday, 07:53 PM

posts: 10

i guess now you can PM that guy for those GTR seats you wanted in the bris classifieds ;-)

I found an ad from the previous owner of my car, trying to sell it in 2005 from Japan (can't find it again now, I saved it on my computer). He had noted it had ~112,000kms on it, IIRC. Then when it was complied - by someone he knew in ACT - paperwork says it was shown has having something like 73,000kms (off the top of my head). Now shows 113,000kms so I think I have to add around 39,000kms to that LOL.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...