Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any1 know wat will happen if i just unplug this motor? its in a position where if i unplug it theres no way its going bak in without taking the WHOLE dash off so just wanna clarify 1st

If you unplug it, you just wont be able to change your vent direction at all.

Complete dash out is an option if you cant reach it, but would most likely be a bit of a bitch of a job. (I've never tried)

My first one, and also my current 33 both did this. I knew what the noise was, but havent yet tried to get in there n reach it. I'll most likely gived it a shot tomorrow!

if i had a series 2 car as a test cop i could have a good go at making up a write up for the s2. im sure there is a way

il have a go and let you no, i no you glued yours, but can do you know how much it would cost to replace the motor, what is the technical name for ther motor?

hey ya mine has the srs airbags and i cant get my hand up there do you know any other way

Disclaimer:

This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car

Introduction:

After hearing friends cars make the noise i figured it was a skyline thing, but when my own skyline started doing it i couldnt put up with even after 1 day of driving. I couldn't find anything on the internet about how to fix it so i went about my own way to find the cause.....with results. this is the 3rd motor i have fixed the last two motors work perfectly so its a tested method

Car in Question:

1995 Model Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

Difficulty Level of DIY:

Low

Time Needed:

Budget at least one hour, if its your first time. ive done 3 now takes about 20 mins including glue drying time

Materials/Equipment Needed:

-Phillips head screw driver

-2 flatblade screwdrivers

-Small length 8mm ring spanner

-5min araldite or similar glue

-Electrical tape

-If you want gloves when prying off the arm..........i ended up slipping and getting 3 stitches

Procedure:

start by pulling the glove box out by pull the 2 pins out

1DSC_0278Large.jpg

then take out the 6 phillips head screws and theres 2 press in clips that take a lil bit of force to pull out

1DSC_0279Large.jpg

the motor in question is right up in there.

1DSC_0280Large.jpg

this is where the 4 jointed arms come in there in two 8mm bolts in there (couldnt get picture) but they are easy felt.

1DSC_0283Large.jpg

once you have the two 8mm screws out lil the motor directly up pull it out unplug it and this is what you should have in front of you

1DSC_0287Large.jpg

1DSC_0288Large.jpg

start buy levering the 5 locking tabs out of the way (the ones ive done have all broken so yours will likely do the same)

1DSC_0289Large.jpg

lever open the two halfs can be a pain but if it comes up evenly will be fine

1DSC_0290Large.jpg

theres the cause of the noise the tooth breaks off cause the motor not to reach a load stop and just keeps trying to turn

1DSC_0291Large.jpg

its good to just inspect all the gears and teeth for strength.

1DSC_0292Large.jpg

Now this is the time where the gloves come in as i found out screwdrivers double as daggers (as you can see) lever the arm off the gear. this will require a bit of force it will either comply and come off or the glue will still have a hold on it.

1DSC_0293Large.jpg

1DSC_0294Large.jpg

IMAG0088Large.jpg

once you have the arm off this is what results

1DSC_0295Large.jpg

careful to not loose the tension washer

1DSC_0296Large.jpg

check that theres is no left over glue or plastic inside the arm

1DSC_0297Large.jpg

now rotate the gear 180degrees from where it originally was so that the missing tooth is away from drive gear

1DSC_0298Large.jpg

another careful note. check that the copper strip doesnt fall out. not sure what it does but must be something

1DSC_0300Large.jpg

put a small amount of glue on the end of the gear

1DSC_0301Large.jpg

push the arm back on the gently tap it on with a hammer as the shaft is tapered, then clean up any excess glue. this should be the end result.

1DSC_0302Large.jpg

now put all parts that you pulled out back in the housing and put the two halves together being careful to align the locator dowels with gears. tape all way around motor (if you clips broke).

There you have it a completed fixed motor.

1DSC_0305Large.jpg

when reinstalling motor make double sure the arm slides back into the lever on top of the aircon box, have to do this all by feel.

dont over tighten the 8mm screws as its only plastic its screwing into after all, just till they bite.

plug motor in and reinstall all the glovebox surround etc and test the aircon changes around all the vents

Lastly Enjoy the quietness of no stupid clicking noise

it took bot an hour on my series 2 with the airbag its possible if you undo the bolts on the middle and left air con box and pull the middle one down off the otheres i have big hands and still got up there the first bolt is easy the front bolt what you need to do is have the small 8mm spanner and manover it from the front but behind the baig bar brace thing and turn it bout twice then just use one finger from ech hand and unscrew then its out im now gna do the rest and put everythin back

so any1 been able to complete this on the s2 with airbags? i really want to get mine done.

my car makes a clunking noise from around the head unit area, it doesnt keep on going tho it happens just after starting up the car 'sometimes' and only happens like 4 or 5 times, are we on the same page here or is my noise something different?.. it also beeps 3 times (i thought this was the immobiliser but i had this removed and it remains).

Azza your problem might be different, The vent motor noise only happens when the car is turned on (ignition or started) its a ticking/clunking noise that goes away after about 15 seconds it will also continuously do it every time you put the car in ignition or start it because the gear is broken. If yours only occurs a few times then goes away then reoccurs again id say its different. The vent motor does not create any beeping noises either but thats just from my experience.

what you just explained is exactly what my car does i went and had a look, i mustn't notice it that much coz i turned my ignition on & off like 5 times before and it clicked like 20 times then stopped, each time.. never happens when im driving, by the way i have a series 1 r33 can i still do this midification to stop the clicking?

Yeah this mod works easiest with a Series 1 becuase the Series 2 have a passenger side airbag which makes getting to the motor a bit more difficult. Good too see the problems solved : )

Edited by DarkRyda

hahah the back bolt is an effort to get in i agree so is that annoying lever but basically the unit switches between vents (foot, dash, face, demister etc...) just check that there all working an you would have done the procedures correctly.

hey guys,

just got the motor out of my S2. just thort i would throw up a quick post recommending having a go at the screws using a 8mm socket piece (just the socket) instead of a short spanner (i was about 2seconds from attacking my ring spanner with a 5" before i decided to have a go with the socket)

also, what exactly does this motor do? you say it controls air vent direction, but currently the motor is out of my car and i can switch between modes and it changes the air flow to the selected vent as intended (main, feet, window, etc). AC also works fine and i can change temp range aswell ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Really, anyone modifying a car isn't being financially smart. We're doing it for the things we love. And honestly, a high revving, light, NA car is actually pretty darn fun. I used to have a Swift Sport, and I miss that thing as a daily, and yes, doing something like some intake and exhaust stuff would have made minimal gains, but would have bought an even bigger smile
    • We are taking pricing back to 2022! The skid pan is nearly double the size of avalon so much better for longer battle runs as seen here > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANxdRf3Do2s When: Saturday 14th June 2025 Where: Winton Skid Pan (Winton Motor Raceway) Price: $145 for SAU VIC Members            $199 for non Members Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to motorsport@sauvic.com.au or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email motorsport@sauvic.com.au To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccommended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Accommodation:  In an effort to try new things and support other country towns we thought a new location for accommodation was worth trying and Euroa was great last time plus its 30 minutes closer to Melbourne. Saturday night we will book a spot at the pub for a couple of quiet drinks.......   Book your accommodation ASAP before it sells out, there are also other options in town if you want to stay elsewhere and join us for dinner Saturday night.   https://euroacaravanpark.com.au/ Address: 73-103 Kirkland Ave, Euroa VIC 3666 Phone: (03) 5795 2160 Entry link with Full Supp Regs to read: https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250614 Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email motorsport@sauvic.com.au Entry List: 1. Josh M 2. Anna 3. Luke  4. Katie 5. Martin 6. Tony 7. Alix 8.  9.  10.  11.  12.  13.  14.  15. 16.  17.  18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. Reserve List 1. 2.  
    • Yeah, playing with naturally aspirated is not smart bang for your buck power wise, but then I've never been known for being smart when it comes to cars and modifications 
    • I mean from V8 world there are gains to be made in intakes and such over stock items, but definitely only if you tune them. We're talking about I dunno, 10kw here and there on a 300KW v8, gains made by tuning in the 0.2 AFR that it changes so YES but also no you won't notice it other than the sound. Duct the air as mentioned 750,000 times and you will notice happier IAT's which definitely make a difference N/A. I mean my unsubstantiated guess is you'd go from 140kw with everything stock (after cams) to 145kw with everything and a tune :p
    • I decided to "spend baby spend", and "risk it for the biscuit" 2 Orders were made buying parts that I "don't really need but really really want" totalling $2.5k AUD 1: In stock items (intake plenum and throttle body) 2: The airbox thingie, with no real ETA for them getting more stock, so patience will be required 
×
×
  • Create New...