Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of using slicks soon but realised I know nothing about them like size (will fit under our skylines), brand, do you have to use front runners and what size rim people are using

I heard you can use a Ford chaser rim which would be a very cheap option but am not to sure if this is true any info would be great and handy to all

Thanks Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30218-slicks/
Share on other sites

OBHAVE from melb has run a 9.8 using a rb25. From what i know he did a 10.3 with 430-50rwhp thats auto.

Manual is the creatd motorsports black one from melb which was a 11.16 @ 126mph.

Both cars i believe had gutted interior and full slicks on 15inch rims and front runners.

Also 16inch au rims do not fit. They hit the brake clappers though yes they are the same stud pattern. I tried this.

Buster, was your time on nitto's? or standard st tyres and what mph did you get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30218-slicks/#findComment-614818
Share on other sites

I run nittos as standard street tyres every day of the week as they are only a semi slick radial tyre

At the end of the day no different then the Dunlop DO1J, Falken Azena, Bridgestone Re540 semi slicks that people use for street/track work ie a radial tyres though the nitto is better suited for drag due to the higher sidewall then the other semi slicks I've mentioned

I ran a best so far of 11.8 @ 123mph with a 60ft of 2.0, I have ran a 60ft of 1.8 at lower boost but haven't been able to get the launch right at the higher boost level yet

We're lucky enough to have the new drag strip opening soon which will mean we'll get a fully prepped strip which should help a bit as I do kick sideways a touch going into 3rd and 4th on the part of the strip which isn't treated

Back on track though do you know anything about slicks?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30218-slicks/#findComment-614875
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...