Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, mean put stock restrictor back in.

The oil cooler i have is a TRUST GREX unit.

And most importantly - no sorry no larger pics.

Will find one though :-)

Ok,

So how much boost does the R32 GTR N1 run with the restrictor in and how much does it run with the restrictor out?

All I know the R34 GTR N1's ran 1.2 Bar (17 PSI) from factory with restrictor in.

Are we talking similar readings with the R32 GTR N1's?

I assume you put it back in to preserve what it is..?

Please do find LARGER PIC of GTR butt cheek. :laugh:

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i wasnt aware that gtr's had no radio controls on the top of the dash???

both of my gtr's have it

Yeah they do have it, just like yours, it a stock feature.

Hehe!! :)

ah righto misunderstood ya

so v specs without the radio option have a blanking plate in there do they??

been a plastic welder i have always wanted to try and make one or two blanking ones for people who install aftermarket radios etc

Ok,

So how much boost does the R32 GTR N1 run with the restrictor in and how much does it run with the restrictor out?

All I know the R34 GTR N1's ran 1.2 Bar (17 PSI) from factory with restrictor in.

Are we talking similar readings with the R32 GTR N1's?

I assume you put it back in to preserve what it is..?

Please do find LARGER PIC of GTR butt cheek. :)

Sorry no idea about the boost without restrictor.

I've only had the car dyno'd with an old HKS boost controller which was switched off and not working. It made 10psi and held it.

as for the blank plate instead of radio controlls, only the N1's and NISMO versions had them.

Wouldn't worry about trying to make one though, as Nissan Japan have them in stock.

Cheers

Sorry no idea about the boost without restrictor.

I've only had the car dyno'd with an old HKS boost controller which was switched off and not working. It made 10psi and held it.

as for the blank plate instead of radio controlls, only the N1's and NISMO versions had them.

Wouldn't worry about trying to make one though, as Nissan Japan have them in stock.

Cheers

Yeah cool!

Ah yeah that's right, N1's had no radio, so no radio controls LOL!

Keep it and enjoy it, sounds like a nice unit. If you want to send something back to make money send a 240/260Z. They are nuts for them.

I think there is real interest at the moment for stockers, maybe there is some older money coming out.

Collectable 32s would be the N1's. Anything in dark blue. ADM's. Some of the crazy ones like the evolutions (theres one on here somewhere) and limited versions and to a lesser extent the Vspec2's.

FYI, there are 2 adms for sale. Both black. One has mods (silly boy) for $40k and the other is a stocker, very clean for $65k. Not a patch on their original asking price but still a very desirable car.

I have had an aussie delivered GTR for 7 years now. It only has 134,000km but I have been modding it as things wear out. So far suspension brakes, computer, boost controller, injectors and exhaust. They do need wider wheels so changed those as well. Have all original parts except injectors.

About to replace turbos as I don't want the ceramic ones to crap themselves one day (which is bound to happen given it is a 19 yo car).

Whilst non modded aussie delivered GTR's are probably prefferred, it would be hard to maintain with factory turbos, suspension etc.

P.S. Your burgundy one looks nice!

Brendan,

Your's is the ex Apexi (i think) drag car, correct?

Its very possible that they used an N1 as the base of the car. I'm purely guessing due to your wiper comment and from your pic i can see it has the N1 lights.

Can you check/remember if the last two letters in your Chassis # are "ZN" or "ZY"?

I have had an aussie delivered GTR for 7 years now. It only has 134,000km but I have been modding it as things wear out. So far suspension brakes, computer, boost controller, injectors and exhaust. They do need wider wheels so changed those as well. Have all original parts except injectors.

About to replace turbos as I don't want the ceramic ones to crap themselves one day (which is bound to happen given it is a 19 yo car).

Whilst non modded aussie delivered GTR's are probably prefferred, it would be hard to maintain with factory turbos, suspension etc.

P.S. Your burgundy one looks nice!

Thanks man. I was very lucky only having to replace the wheels for stockers when I bought mine. It has 95k with books, original sales slip and the leather GT-R owners folder and manual. If you are replacing items in preventative terms I would hang onto the originals. I think these cars are going to be worth a bomb in the years to come. How much did you pick yours up for? PM if you like.

Brendan,

Your's is the ex Apexi (i think) drag car, correct?

Its very possible that they used an N1 as the base of the car. I'm purely guessing due to your wiper comment and from your pic i can see it has the N1 lights.

Can you check/remember if the last two letters in your Chassis # are "ZN" or "ZY"?

Sorry mate in pic is Garage Saurus R32, yeah my car is ex Apexi drag car but my last are ZG

This topic seems right up my alley. As most of you, i love R32 GT-Rs.

My vision of the ideal R32 GT-R would be:

- extremely clean

- replacement of various parts with new factory/nismo items (carpet, trim pieces etc)

- NISMO LMGT4's (or possibly TE's)

- adjustable coils

- new clutch

- N1 body styling

obviously a few aftermarket goodies and such..

but that would be my ideal 32

This topic seems right up my alley. As most of you, i love R32 GT-Rs.

My vision of the ideal R32 GT-R would be:

- extremely clean

- replacement of various parts with new factory/nismo items (carpet, trim pieces etc)

- NISMO LMGT4's (or possibly TE's)

- adjustable coils

- new clutch

- N1 body styling

obviously a few aftermarket goodies and such..

but that would be my ideal 32

So a full NISMO body kit with a set of LMGT 4's / TE 37's.

Yeah, same here.

49601259.jpg

62446262.jpg

So a full NISMO body kit with a set of LMGT 4's / TE 37's.

Yeah, same here.

49601259.jpg

62446262.jpg

Basically. That would be pretty much perfect. simple styling mods. Very clean inside with replacing of carpet/mats/trim etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...