Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I ran 14 psi once on my stock 33 turbo and it didnt last long.. not a very good situation to be in when it blows.. but i got it high flowed after =]. Anyone know wats the highest psi u can put on a 33 highflowed turb??

i got a gtr pfc, and yeh steve is right vct is over rated, i used 2 run 14 psi on my standard turbo and never had any issue made 205rwkw, and as for the highflow mines making 22 psi atm everyday fine

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got a gtr pfc, and yeh steve is right vct is over rated, i used 2 run 14 psi on my standard turbo and never had any issue made 205rwkw, and as for the highflow mines making 22 psi atm everyday fine

BULL SHIT

seems like everyone knows you shouldn't run lotsa boost through the stock turbo but no one has mentioned why that is...

By stock turbo I'm talking about the R33 and later turbos, including R34, and all turbo stageas.

The below has been blatantly copied from another forum - post by "nismo33" hope I haven't upset anyone by linking to this.

As said above you will need to tell us if the turbo is off an R33 GTR or R33 GTS-t.

In regards to maximum “safe” boost I can give you some ballpark figures:

- For a R33 GTS-t standard turbo 12 psi

- For a R33 GTR turbo 14 psi (or even a little higher)

A lot depends on the condition of the turbo and the application. The figures stated above are when the turbo is running on a RB25 / RB26 respectively, but it should give you a rough idea on what you could set the boost level to. Also what is the condition of the turbo? Any shaft play?

It would be nice if you knew exactly what standard turbo you have. If the turbo came off a R33 GTS-t do you know what year was it? There are slight differences between the series 1 (93-95 model) and series 2 (96-98) GTS-t turbo. The series one can handle a little more boost over the series 2 item. There is also a difference between a standard R33 GTR turbo and a standard R33 GTR N1 specification turbo, with the N1 item being much better.

But in the end application and condition play a major role in determining how much boost you could safely run. It know of people who have run 14 psi in their R33 GTS-t Skyline’s and a week later the turbo has blown, and on the other hand people who have run the same for years without a single problem. I have been running about 12 psi through mine on my R33 GTS-t (with aftermarket intercooler) for over 2 years without any problems… I know of many others who run 14psi (1 bar) through their GTRs with standard turbos without any problems

Are you going to be running a decent intercooler or just a small item? If it’s a small intercooler that is likely to become heat soaked quickly I wouldn’t be running your turbo (if it’s a GTS-t standard turbo) over 10 psi. The ceramic turbine in the GTS-t turbo is sweated/bonded onto the common shaft and because of this doesn’t like too much resistance (boost) or heat.

So there you go. They said it better than I could. Basically ~14psi is the point where the turbo will generate enough heat for the ceramic turbine to disintegrate. Some turbos last longer than others, maybe years, maybe just days...

But why risk it? Upping the boost on a stock ecu will only make it run rich since the stock ecu wont give you an optimal tune. If you want to run more boost, get a highflow unit with steel wheels and some sort of piggyback/replacement ecu - it'll save you a lot of hassle and give you loads more benefit, both in power and fuel economy. :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...