Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What was the venue last time?

Teh Great Northern in Chatswood.

My lasting memory of the night, thinking it was a good idea to try and walk home before giving up and catching a cab by the time I got to Roseville :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303284-pre-texi-dinner/#findComment-5030057
Share on other sites

Shall we make it a bit closer to the actual Texi venue this time?

Well, it's a week before Texi... So I'm sure we're not driving from Dinner to Texi... :banana:

I'm up for what ever where ever... And I may need some where to stay up there, (ANd directions back to Wollongong) as I'll already be in Syd that day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303284-pre-texi-dinner/#findComment-5030446
Share on other sites

matt, are we cruising up together? do i need to bring the trailer?

I'll already be in Sydney without a car Stu, but if you can give me a lift home, throw me out the door at the top of Bulli, it'd be awesome... That is unless you decide you want a beer or three...

I think Shell and I sat up most of that night drinkign... LOL

Edit: Wait, are you thinking cruising in regards to actual Texi, or the Texi dinner?

If you're meaning to actual Texi... I'd love a trailer... I see me breaking it... ROFL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303284-pre-texi-dinner/#findComment-5030895
Share on other sites

you can crash at mine Matt.. but you have to sleep on the couch.. and you have to pay me $800 and take the couch when you're done! :rolleyes:

Deal! So long as I can charge you $900 for my presence being in your homez...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303284-pre-texi-dinner/#findComment-5032640
Share on other sites




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...