Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think it's rather flawed this law. I always wondered why people weren't getting defected for suction cap GPS's while hard mounted guages were an issue. In the event of an accident the tacho ain't going nowhere. Both will be an intrusion to the driver either way. What if I used suction caps on a monster tacho? Would look ugly as heck but it would break off in an accident?

I'm old school. Gimme a street directory and I'll get there.

you could assume that,,,, but don't forget your listening to hear/say, ask rta they will tell you for sure, and see if you can get it in wrighting aswell

you could assume that,,,, but don't forget your listening to hear/say, ask rta they will tell you for sure, and see if you can get it in wrighting aswell

yeh good idea I will give them a ring. :P

just thought that i might be ok as my car is qld registered

behind the stering wheel its a defect if mounted on the pillar

it may well be, but like i said, i've been defected 3 times and never have had the rta or the cops say anything.

they have looked at it, but they have never defected me for it being there, yet when i had my other gauges mounted on the dash in front of the vents, i was defected for it so go figure...

a bit more hear/say Like Kujotk said ^^^ check with the rta, get it in writing and keep a copy in the car hehehe

bout 7 yrs ago now I got pinged for my 'A' pillar guage being 2 far up the pillar and was told by the blue slip bloke (real hard a$$ type) the entire guage must be behind the rim of the steering wheel ( the bit ya grip), moved it down and got passed

also I had tweeters in the vents(had them hid back behind the grill) , old eagle eye spotted em while sus'n my guage and made me move them 2, so I'd say guages in the vents would be out

I have in the past rang the RTA to ask specific Q'z and if ya nice enough they will post a printed extract of the regs

:Source

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/mot...adr_online.aspx

The Third Edition ADRs were made national standards by Determinations Nos 1 and 2 of 1989 published in Special Gazettes Nos S 264 and S 291 dated 2 August and 1 September 1989 respectively. However, the standards first became effective from 1 July 1988 to ensure that the transition from previous technical requirements was made smoothly. In addition, not all Third Edition ADRs applied as from 2 August 1989. Importantly, the implementation of the lighting ADRs was postponed until 1 October 1991 and 1 July 1992 for some vehicle categories.

The Third Edition ADRs were re-made as national vehicle standards in September 2006 to comply with the requirements of the Legislative Instruments Act 2003 (LIA) and registered on the Federal Register of Legislative Instruments (FRLI) (www.comlaw.gov.au). The list of Third Edition ADRs below has each version (e.g. /00) linked to the FRLI web site, where the ADRs, as vehicle standards (including amendments and compilations) and explanatory statements, can be found.

But they obstruct your vision.

I didnt read the full thread to see if this was answered but 3 diff cops ive asked about GPS units have told me "because they are considered a 'safety' item they are exempt". Meaning because it tells you where to go so you don't get lost it's allowed to be mounted on your windscreen?

By the way, i have one of these with 2x gauges in it:

autometerpods.jpg

Never been harassed about it.

If only a GPS unit could display boost and temps etc...

I have a single gauge in a cup on my A pillar mounted as low and far back as possible, and 3 under my head deck. That one officer is the only one to have said anything about it. As for what the officer told me it is pretty much hearsay too, they enforce the laws not make them. As everyone else has said check with the RTA or an approved engineer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...