Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my cars going in on wednesday to get a z32 ecu and nistune installed and tuned up. Im very excited to say the least. Anyway the car has the basic mods, full exhaust, fmic, pod filter, manual boost controller and its getting a new fuel pump on Wednesday as well, just as insurance against fuel supply problems.

So basically I was wondering about the rev limiter on rb25's, how high can you go on an unopened engine. I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question. So i was hoping that people could speak from personal experience, i.e how high is your limiters set?

From what ive seen 7,500 seems to be the limit, but im not really sure.

Also with the fuel pump the one to get is the Bosch isn't it? The mechanic said to get that or the walbro, and i said i wasnt sure, ille leave it to him. And just now i read about the walbros being crap and having random failures so i might ring him back and tell him i want the bosch. Sound good?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304063-rb-25det-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

I know the factory limiter is around 7,200rpm i think you will find power will likely drop after this anyways. But is there really a reason to rev it that high in the first place?

My 33 with front mount, cat back, pod, 10psi best shift point is bout 6k.

And yes bosch pump is the way to go

Yeah I agree with your point on power dropping a bit at the high rpms, probably because the stock turbo is running out of puff. As for reasons to rev that high, well basically the higher you rev, when you go into the next gear you are going to be higher in the rev range. And as for you changing gear at 6000rpm, thats not a problem, but dont you notice that power keeps increasing all the way untill red line? I certainly do and therefore ussually change gear at about 6,900. That is if im giving it the boot.

Yeah I agree with your point on power dropping a bit at the high rpms, probably because the stock turbo is running out of puff. As for reasons to rev that high, well basically the higher you rev, when you go into the next gear you are going to be higher in the rev range. And as for you changing gear at 6000rpm, thats not a problem, but dont you notice that power keeps increasing all the way untill red line? I certainly do and therefore ussually change gear at about 6,900. That is if im giving it the boot.

well u have more mods than me so thats possible as no i do not feel the power keep increasing.

also it will shorten your engine life. So i would suggest maybe open her up and build an engine for reving out if thats what you want.

I know the factory limiter is around 7,200rpm i think you will find power will likely drop after this anyways. But is there really a reason to rev it that high in the first place?

My 33 with front mount, cat back, pod, 10psi best shift point is bout 6k.

And yes bosch pump is the way to go

Factory rev limit is 6900.

7k. any higher with a stock turbo is pretty pointless

Give this man a medal - post of the thread.

No point taking it any further than 7,000rpm, factory turbo is begging for a gear change by 7k, so why stress for no reason?

Keeping it at 7000 will preserve the motor much better.
7k. any higher with a stock turbo is pretty pointless
Give this man a medal - post of the thread.

No point taking it any further than 7,000rpm, factory turbo is begging for a gear change by 7k, so why stress for no reason?

On mine it is set to 7100 because my HKS2850 turbo drops off around there.

I have done 120,000 kms on a stock motor pushing 320+ HP, drags, track and it still runs sweet, I do have all the support mods needed.

mines on 7900 mate, all those under are just wimps ( yeh im prepared to get flammed it is SAU ) My 20 is even higher =)

whilst sliding wether power drops off or not you need revs, and like you said higher rev so next gear is up in sweet spot whilst changin.

i have power fc and can change this myself when ever i want, so speakin from experience 7 does not cut it.

Better to have it higher rather than too low and not be happy and pay again to get it changed with nisstune !

Edited by bbe
mines on 7900 mate, all those under are just wimps ( yeh im prepared to get flammed it is SAU ) My 20 is even higher =)

whilst sliding wether power drops off or not you need revs, and like you said higher rev so next gear is up in sweet spot whilst changin.

i have power fc and can change this myself when ever i want, so speakin from experience 7 does not cut it.

Better to have it higher rather than too low and not be happy and pay again to get it changed with nisstune !

Why did this just give me a mental image of Einstein licking a window?

i dont really agree, if you are running a stock turbo.... i had 7100 dialed in on mine and it was definately outside the powerband... for drift i do understand that you need higher revs tho...

currently i have 7400 dialed in with the 2835, and i could go higher, but want to preserve the motor

didnt that guy with 485ish rwhp out of his stock internaled 25 (cant find thread) usually rev it to 7500 but when he raised the limit to 85 to avoid changing into 5th just before the line it threw a rod at about 8300 ??

someone else will remember the thread .

8500 that would just be awesome, goodbye ceramic wheels thou lol

At 7900 it still does sound smooth =)

I dont get the Einstein licking a window lol

Oh and their is nothing wrong with Walbro.

Edited by bbe

Ive got similar mods,

JJR coilpacks

3" turbo back exhaust

FMIC

Pod filter

Bosch 040

nismo Fuel pressure reg

Hi-flowed turbo

Z32 with nistune

mine is set at 7600 as thats when the power peaked. although i have my shift light set at 6800, by the time i react it get pretty close to the limit.

and u will be very happy with the nistune, i know i am.

so will the rb25 head macthed with a bigger turbo able to flow good enough to still make power around 7400-7900??? i have heard good things about the rb20 making its way up to 8 or so but the 25???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...