Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you probably have too much 'loud pedal' fun with it or drive it most of the time sitting in traffic jam.

with gentle , nanna style driving to and from work in daily traffic jam, I made 13.1 to 13.3ltr/100km average or around 7.64~7.5 km/ltr

so your figure isn't awfully too bad.

over the quiet Xmas & NY period I made 12.9ltr/100km or around 7.75 km/ltr

So yours 7.8km/ltr that is 12.8 ltr/100km - MUCH BETTER ECONOMY THAN MINE!

what are you complaining about?

How to read original (non-Xanavi translated to english) consumption figure (the Japanese way):

The higher the number, the better the fuel economy. It is in km/ltr. more kms per each litre of petrol = better fuel economy.

how to read Xanavi translated to english consumption figure (the Australian way):

The lower the number, the better the fuel economy. translated software version is now in ltr/100km. less litre used for each 100km travel = better fuel economy.

Just did my first tank of fuel.

Did two trips from Brisbane to Burleigh heads (about 350-400km total) and the rest was regular town driving but that included a fair bit of heavy foot driving seeing what the car has got.

So this arvo at pump I put in 57 litres, and I had done over 550km's since the last time it was filled.

10.3 litres/100km :laugh:

7.8Km/L for urban driving seems average from what I've read in this section...

I get about 8-9km/L around town, though I never drive in any form of 'peak hour traffic'. On the highway it's usually about 11-12km/L, my best was a Christmas day trip last year Syd to Melbourne, I got about 13.5Km/L for the trip and nearly made it to Melb on one tank! (For the first time I can remember I was glad for all the Police presence keeping me to the speed limit... I discovered how much better economy you get sitting on only 100-110kmh, go figure?!).

Oh and I get about 2.8-3.1km/L on the track (assuming the trip computer calculates correctly) and that's giving it as much loud pedal as the circuit allows!

Not sure if MT vs AT is something to consider in this discussion? Mine is MT

Oh and I get about 2.8-3.1km/L on the track (assuming the trip computer calculates correctly) and that's giving it as much loud pedal as the circuit allows!

2.8-3.1 on the track - wowser!

I was getting about 4.1 on Sandown.

post-55164-1263801180_thumb.jpg

This photo was taken after a recent highway trip, just after i filled up, ended up getting 900kms from 75 litres.

regularly get around 10.5km per litre according to the fuel consumption screen, and thats back up at the bowser with 60 litres getting around 600kms.

2.8-3.1 on the track - wowser!

I was getting about 4.1 on Sandown.

Here's a pic from a track day before I got the TopSpeed Pro1 Exhaust fitted... (which seemed to decrease the economy further, or it might have been that I got more confident with the track and was pushing harder in subsequent days?)

post-60966-1263812952_thumb.jpg

I usually get anywhere between 7 km/l to 8.5 km/l depending on traffic. Most of my driving is either short trips in the burbs or the 25km commute to work and back in just (barely) pre-peak hour Melbourne traffic.

Taking the car on a nice long trip this coming weekend so I look forward to seeing how I go with economy. Will finally get to put that cruise control that Chris Rogers did for me to good use use :D

I get around 8.5km/l around town in a 6MT. Almost made it back to Brisbane from Sydney on one tank in 2008 when I first bought the car(900km+). At the other extreme though on my first skid pan day I was almost exclusively in first gear (reving the nuts off it of course) and managed the dubious fuel burn rate of 19 litres for 19km of driving. Could not believe it and now that I am game to tackle it in 2nd gear consumption has improved vastly.

my last Scoresby Fwy trip yields me 9.6ltr/100km with 130-ish km on the odo trip meter and estimated 530+ km still available based on the trip computer's estimation - it is possible to get 600-700km a tank on the 3.5 ltr if I can keep the pace like that (e.g. long trip 6-7 hours non stop)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...