Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WHats the dumbest or worst thing uve done to your car than that u regreted later ?

I go first, about 2 years ago i went to port stephens and on the way back the girls wanted to go to nelson bay but it had been raining and there where HEAPS of pot holes and i mean big ones, but i thought stuff it so i started, i tryed to avoid them but then about 1km up the road it jsut became impossobile to avoid them and i was going about 40 and i hit one real hard and the front bumper almost came off, and then did a u-turn to go back and hit another 10-15 and each time just a loud thump almsot got stuck 4 times.

THe end damage , front suspension was finished had to repalce it, front left tyre got ripped and front bumper ended up in the boot! overall damage $2400

NEVER AGAIN

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used cheap brake fluid at my first track day which boiled after the first session, but I wasn't smart enough to realise this and kept doing laps until my brake pedal sunk to the floor. Its taken around 8mths to have the problem fixed and around $3,000 worth of fixing/upgrades.

Its all good though, I learnt heaps, I did some major upgrades which -should- prevent this from every happening again whilst improving my car dramatically (on the track).

i got a dodgey mechanic to check the car before I bought it. So far it's cost me $1,500 in getting it up to scratch (replace clutch cylinders, gaskets, power steering pump, right front boot plus a few others I can't remember now).

After watching RH9 on the dyno spin up 400+kw @ wheels, and a lot of teasing by the GTR crew at CRD, I did a 2 minute burnout in my 280rwkw GTS-t whilst it was being filmed...

More smoke than you could ever imagine, I even melted the asphalt under both tyres. Cost me about $200 in semi slick tyres (18" Dunlop D01Js), only to have the video accidentally filmed over later, and I never got to see it uh.gif

Drove my 98 GSR Lancer on the beach at pt. Maquarie and got bogged right on the water line. managed to get a tow, once the car was hooked up a large wave broke over the car and it started to float out to sea with me in it. Luckly the tow chain stopped me going to sea. Hosed about 100kg of sand out of it and the only damage was a buggered idler pully bearing (was burried in the sand) and a shattered windscreen on the tow vehicle (passanger head hit)

I kept the car for another 2 years after that. The funnies thing is everytime the thermo fan kicked in and the bonnet was up, sand would fly....I must have washed, gerni'ed and hosed that car 1000's of times, but sand was everywhere....

I have learnt 4wd is not 4 x 4......:-)

Drove my 98 GSR Lancer on the beach at pt. Maquarie and got bogged right on the water line.  managed to get a tow, once the car was hooked up a large wave broke over the car and it started to float out to sea with me in it.  Luckly the tow chain stopped me going to sea.  Hosed about 100kg of sand out of it and the only damage was a buggered idler pully bearing (was burried in the sand) and a shattered windscreen on the tow vehicle (passanger head hit)

I kept the car for another 2 years after that.  The funnies thing is everytime the thermo fan kicked in and the bonnet was up, sand would fly....I must have washed, gerni'ed and hosed that car 1000's of times, but sand was everywhere....

I have learnt 4wd is not 4 x 4......:-)

Thats A Classic 4doorGTR!!!!

Hard to beat that one

Hahaha! love this thread!

hmm ok

came back from skoolies.. so not really on the ball

was provoked to race by wankers in an ss,

long story short..

went too fast for a corner dented 2x Nismo mags, broke 400r front bar and broke radius rods.. oh and cracked a sideskirt

no panel damage or major mechanical :O

could have been allllooot worse

$4000 later

i feel pretty stupid :)

in process of being fixed now, she'll be done in a week or two once panel shop opens so i can get stuff sprayed and put on

in the bmw (pics) every time i go to this special shops wen its empty i gun it over a roundabout straight over and bounce and then wen i reach 90 theres a nice big speed bump i hit which makes me go even higher!

I always think after maybe my suspension might be a little worse off

I let Fatz borrow my car for a whole week.

I win the "most brutal" prize.

Duncan - YOU WIN!!! :headspin:

I was going to say driving mine and smacking it into a wall so it was written off - but no you have to win, and you got yours back. :bonk:

in the bmw (pics) every time i go to this special shops wen its empty i gun it over a roundabout straight over and bounce and then wen i reach 90 theres a nice big speed bump i hit which makes me go even higher!

I always think after maybe my suspension might be a little worse off

St Ives Shopping Village........... Right? :)

Losing the back end, taking out the front left side into a telegraph pole with a 5 tonne garbage truck behind nearly running me over!

&

Racing a stolen Liberty RS in Ryde, which ended up being chased by cops (after the little sprint) for the next 2hrs to somewhere out west. Never got busted for racing! Heard about it in the papers the next day. Absolutely crazy thinking i got busted for racing, with 3 x highway patrols on the guys tail, he just kept going!

what r u guys on about....my mate launching his gemini off a wharf into sea is d winner!...lol......got it on camera and everything.....lmao

Well lets see the video then :)

lol

he put a brick on d petrol........brick infront of d wheel.....put it in gear....ran out......kicked the brick off...and WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!.........

funniest shit i HAVE ever seen.......!!!!!!!:)

how d hell do u put a video on d net?

Was it a Auto or Manual???????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...