Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive heard something about the solder inside of them going dry or something like that, then what happens it dosent let the power through .

apparently if you pull them apart and resolder them it sometimes gets them working. not to sure if its true just something i heard from a mate. Mines currently not working to how much did nissan qoute you for a new one ?

Ive heard something about the solder inside of them going dry or something like that, then what happens it dosent let the power through .

apparently if you pull them apart and resolder them it sometimes gets them working. not to sure if its true just something i heard from a mate. Mines currently not working to how much did nissan qoute you for a new one ?

$280 brand new LOOL its the smallest of little things, I cant beleive how much they go for. All i can say is GTR

Try wreckers. I was looking for the plastic surround cause mine had a whole cut above the clock for a boost controller. I lucked out and got a surround and a working clock for $40!!

Wow you got lucky? how long ago was this? i would think there all gone by now.. although i have never tried a wrecker only thinking that there will be no luck

Very common problem it seems. Mine doesnt work either and it pisses you off. I am going to crack it open this weekend and try a re-solder. Will let you know how I go. I even remember something about if you punch too much boost through your car it deliberately fries the clock so the Nissan dealership knows that you have tampered with the boost and voids warranty. Probably a myth though because it sounds far-fetched.

  • Haha 1
Very common problem it seems. Mine doesnt work either and it pisses you off. I am going to crack it open this weekend and try a re-solder. Will let you know how I go. I even remember something about if you punch too much boost through your car it deliberately fries the clock so the Nissan dealership knows that you have tampered with the boost and voids warranty. Probably a myth though because it sounds far-fetched.

Yeh that does sound about funny i doubt they would do that, i mean that car was worth over 100 grand when it came out i would think they wouldnt care what you do with it after its gone. PLEASE let me know as i have the dash pulled apart and i would like to figure it out before i put it back together this weekend. thanks bud

Wow you got lucky? how long ago was this? i would think there all gone by now.. although i have never tried a wrecker only thinking that there will be no luck

Only about a month or so ago. Just ring up places that bring half cuts in. Thats what i did, and yep a bit of luck :-)

have this exact problem as well, although mine comes and goes as it pleases. very annoying because whenever i want to know the time its off and every other time its on....

would also like to know if anyone is able to fix it and what part needs soldering

Yeah, mine too. tried resoldering my old one but it still had a mind of its own. Purchased another surround which came with a clock, bit it too has failed. Same fault. Works sometime, then stops. It does keep the time so its a display fault or accessory power related problem. I give up on these.

have this exact problem as well, although mine comes and goes as it pleases. very annoying because whenever i want to know the time its off and every other time its on....

would also like to know if anyone is able to fix it and what part needs soldering

  • 5 months later...

Mines packed it in. I suspect the surface mounted IC or the VFD has died, if so, we're all up shit creek.

Does anyone in Melbourne have a working clock that I can use for testing and try figure out what's wrong with them?

I've replaced the usual suspects, the surface mounted 10uF capacitors and it didn't fix it. I want to compare a dead and working one side by side and establish if they can be repaired.

Cheers

Nevermind, I've found and fixed the problem. I saw in another thread people were saying the clock is detecting overboost, haha what a load of shit.

Anyway, there are four surface mount 30 ohm resistors in series to dissipate some heat under the Vacuum Fluorescent Lamp, they dry joint. Very risky to remove the VFL since it's glass and painfully easy to break. If you chip it, it's dead....

Took a couple of hours but I've fixed it, including the unnecessary removal of the SM IC to find out what it was (OKI M5547, datasheet here if anyone wants it: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=M5547 )

Hope it gets a few of you out of trouble :bunny:

post-371-1278219323_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219331_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219337_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219346_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219352_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219358_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Nevermind, I've found and fixed the problem. I saw in another thread people were saying the clock is detecting overboost, haha what a load of shit.

Anyway, there are four surface mount 30 ohm resistors in series to dissipate some heat under the Vacuum Fluorescent Lamp, they dry joint. Very risky to remove the VFL since it's glass and painfully easy to break. If you chip it, it's dead....

Took a couple of hours but I've fixed it, including the unnecessary removal of the SM IC to find out what it was (OKI M5547, datasheet here if anyone wants it: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=M5547 )

Hope it gets a few of you out of trouble :bunny:

How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...