Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I got my whiteline rear sway bar put on today, along with my Kumho KU36s on the front and full suspension check/alignment. My whole suspension was apparently all over the place, with a lot of negative camber on both wheels.

Anyway, since getting the car back, the car feels... good. I suspect this is the proper alignment making the a car much nice driver, however I have concerned about the sway bar. When cornering, not even when cornering hard, it feels like the rear really wants to kick out.

When coming out of a round about I gave the car a little prod and I felt the rear lose traction slightly.

My question is, is this normal? Will I just have to get used to this new driving style, or is the rear bar a little too stiff perhaps? I was told it would help combat the under steer in my nose heavy Supra, but I feel less comfortable cornering now that I did before.

I'm quite the novice when it comes to suspension (although I am learning!), so I'd appreciate any feedback.

Cheers,

Kieran.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/
Share on other sites

Quick update, took the car for a bit of a spirited drive today and it handles really, really well.

It feels like it wants to let go (or at least when the car felt this way prior to the changes it was going to let go), but it just grips and goes. I guess I have to relearn the car and its limits, might wait till DECA before I really start pushing it though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5052033
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

so does that mean that upgraded front swaybar only, will cause understeer?

and how about the balance of stiffness between upgraged front and rear, on r33 in particular? 24mm front + 22mm rear. will it tend towards understeer?

or will the rear end (being much lighter) have less roll than the front, regardless? ie. tend towards oversteer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5177812
Share on other sites

so does that mean that upgraded front swaybar only, will cause understeer?

Yeah, or more correctly shift the bias of the car from oversteer to understeer. If you stiffen up one end, the tyres at that end will work harder and therefore loose grip earlier relative to the other end.

and how about the balance of stiffness between upgraged front and rear, on r33 in particular? 24mm front + 22mm rear. will it tend towards understeer?

or will the rear end (being much lighter) have less roll than the front, regardless? ie. tend towards oversteer

There's more to it than the diameter of the bar - the length of the arms also determines how the bar flexes - think of what happens with a longer bar when you're undoing a nut. That's why the outer connections on an adjustable bar make it less stiff. WRT weight - the heavier end will work the tyres harder, so you can compensate for that by putting more bar on the other end.

IMO its best to replace both front and rear at the same time and get at least one adjustable so you can play with understeer/oversteer balance. If you're going to track it adjustables both ends.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5178102
Share on other sites

good info :)

so what have people generally found on 33gtst for street with the 24mm adjustable front + 22mm fixed rear? which adjustment works best at the front?

so settings are like so. ie. more leverage, less resistance. makes sense

20070505_2885.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5178154
Share on other sites

so what have people generally found on 33gtst for street with the 24mm adjustable front + 22mm fixed rear? which adjustment works best at the front?

Each car will be different (tyres/wheels, alignment settings) so just try the middle setting first for a bit and see how you like it. Trackday would be safest to try out different settings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5178211
Share on other sites

IV had an adjustable front swaybar sitting in the boot of my R33 for over a year now still in its packaging.. wonder how well its working :D

But in all seriousness, i was going to wait till i got the rear to install it, and just never got it. Was going to put it in soon, but the general consensus is that i should get a rear one and do both at the same time yes?

Interesting the rears are quite a bit more than the fronts. Ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304939-rear-swaybar/#findComment-5180061
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
    • planning a r34 rb25 de+t with some other work, rather just have it done in a shop due to space limitations any recommendations? I have most the parts already I seen online Moore Performance and DR Drift any advice appreciated thanks 
    • I’ve read the previous posts so just looking for latest information on how people have dealt with front facing plenum is it a defect etc or didn’t pass roadworthy or was it not noticed? Have a r34 and deciding if I should make a hole on the driver side or not.  I know some people have said blitz return flow but I might get rid of the stock intake down the line for a plenum so I rather set up for that now plus I already have a standard Intercooler. Car is mainly stock  Thanks. 
    • Actually, if having and keeping the stock ECU is the plan, the correct answer is to put Nistune into the ECU and improve the situation, not just look at it.
×
×
  • Create New...