Jump to content
SAU Community

Coil Pack Testers

Evil34

By Evil34,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know a place that can test coil packs to make sure they are working properly!!!!

I am trying to rule one thing out at a time at the moment to find what is wrong with my car!!!

connect an earth lead and a positive to the coilpack top, then put the live bit of the coilpack on your tongue

it works, honest! >:(

(If it works with a 9 volt battery.....)

-D

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know a place that can test coil packs to make sure they are working properly!!!!

I am trying to rule one thing out at a time at the moment to find what is wrong with my car!!!

have you looked for the error codes on the computer first ?, checked the grounds and plugs for corrosion, pretty common?

Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted (edited)

From what I have read around the place bench testing them isn't worth it.

If they are only charging $50 to do them they aren't testing them under load or at working temperatures. My guess is it's just a resistance check which can't rule them out as a problem, only at times confirm they are a problem.

Swapping them out is by far the cheapest and most definative way. Even if you can only get 1 known working one it doesn't take long to swap it through the 6 different positions. Once you have the coil cover off you can squeeze them in and out without having to undo anything else. All up it should take 2 hours max- that's if the last one you test is the one that's gone. I recon I could do all 6 in my stagea in under 1 hour

Also, if you cut off the lip at the back of the coil cover you should be able to get it in and out without removing the crossover pipe making future work easier.

Edit: not sure if you can get then in and out as easily on a R34, I've only done it on an R33 S2

Edited by Race__24
J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted (edited)
From what I have read around the place bench testing them isn't worth it.

If they are only charging $50 to do them they aren't testing them under load or at working temperatures. My guess is it's just a resistance check which can't rule them out as a problem, only at times confirm they are a problem.

Swapping them out is by far the cheapest and most definative way. Even if you can only get 1 known working one it doesn't take long to swap it through the 6 different positions. Once you have the coil cover off you can squeeze them in and out without having to undo anything else. All up it should take 2 hours max- that's if the last one you test is the one that's gone. I recon I could do all 6 in my stagea in under 1 hour

Also, if you cut off the lip at the back of the coil cover you should be able to get it in and out without removing the crossover pipe making future work easier.

Edit: not sure if you can get then in and out as easily on a R34, I've only done it on an R33 S2

Just FYI there is a place that does this & last I knew, they did it for less than $50.... although it may cost that much by now.

The place is called Petro-Ject, located in Stepney (Ph: 81321622).

They will do testing on individual coil packs & heat them up to full operating temperatures & under high load. The guy that does it all has being doing the same kind of work for something like 12 years now & knows his stuff.

And just let them know that Jared sent you :D

Edited by J_Red33
Evil34 Experienced

Evil34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank guys, i have an intermittent missfire and no one seems to be able to rule anything out as there are no error codes coming up.

i have split fires already and they have done less than 5000kms in 18 months, so if it s them i wiil be pi**ed.

J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted

Would almost have to be a defective coil pack after only 5000kms for them to be the issue. What boost & spark plugs & gaps are you running?

Do you have the original coil packs? I'd suggest you'd try these first if they worked ok when you removed them.

Evil34 Experienced

Evil34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Would almost have to be a defective coil pack after only 5000kms for them to be the issue. What boost & spark plugs & gaps are you running?

Do you have the original coil packs? I'd suggest you'd try these first if they worked ok when you removed them.

The car spent 6 weeks in a mechanics trying to sort it out and all they came up with is that one of the ciol packs is slightly faulty as no error codes came up.

Just want to try and sort something as it is detracting from driving the car and my enjoyment.

Boost is only 10 psi and a .8 gap has been set with a fresh set of plugs as done by my mechanic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Returning after a long time!

      By silviaz · Posted

      That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
    • Roy
      Garrett G Series

      By Roy · Posted

      That's convinced me I'll bump up the G30-660 to 770   Any idea if the difference in boost pressure? Cheers
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - GTR Festival 2025 - Saturday 24th May

      By Keeper · Posted

      When: Saturday 24th of May 2025 - All day Where: Sydney Dragway, Eastern Creek Cost: Varies - Book direct with the GTR Festival Website We will be there on the day with a stand please reach out via our interest form if you wish to help out with the stand. Limited parking will be available in the display area, first in first served with current members getting priority, please register your interest with the link above also. Please post any great photos you take on the day on this thread and we will try use some in our e-mails/website/social media
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Hey guys so turns out this project is going to be much bigger than I thought haha but I've done some my homework and have done a few panels on my car, but one part I can just not visualise is this. If I do a spot repair and I put filler in a dent for example and sand outside of the repair with 320 grit lets say so the primer can stick as I will only put primer on that repair and the surrounding area and then repaint the whole panel. Don't I need to make sure that I don't put primer on the old clear coat? I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down, it's still shiny. I thought putting paint on clearcoat or primer on clearcoat is a bad idea because it won't stick. So in this scenario it's a bit different to mine but imagine someone doing a spot repair and only painting that small section of repair but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat. What am I missing?
×
×
  • Create New...