Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I was just asked a question by a forum member on how to swap the S15 Helical diff into the R32, so I thought I'd post it on here to help anyone else out.

A quick "Google" search will find plenty of articles explaining the benefits of the Helical diff centre. For me it seemed like the best choice, as the diff is awesome for street driving and does not wear out like viscous and clutch type LSD's tend to. The only down side to the diff is that it's not the best for drifting, and it can tend to open wheel if one wheel as zero traction (as the centre cannot detect any torque, so it doesn't know to transfer it to the other side)... Though I'm told that if you lightly apply the hand brake (when getting out of slippery spots) it should solve this problem and drive both wheels.

I'd purchased a whole S15 diff, with the half shafts, so I was hoping I'd be able to swap the whole diff over and not have to pull them apart. Unfortunately it wasn't that straight forward.

The S15 diff has the mounting holes is a slightly different position (due to the speed sensor at the front of the diff). In the attached photo's below the S15 diff is on the right.

post-3204-1264510876_thumb.jpg

post-3204-1264510910_thumb.jpg

So I had to remove my diff and pull it apart to swap centres.

My initial plan was to go with the 3.7:1 ratio from the S15, but after reading a few posts on here, I decided it would probably be too tall for what I was after. My diff was already 4.08:1, so it's taller than most.

After the diff was removed, oil drained and pulled apart. I unbolted the crown wheel from the viscous centre and then bolted it onto the helical centre out of the S15. I then reassembled the diff.

There are 3 shims that position the diff centre correctly (2 thin and one thick). As the crown wheel on the S15 diff is thicker than the R32 crown wheel, the thick shim had to be installed on the opposite side from when it was removed. It does seem quite tight to remove and reinstall them, but I had the correct amount of backlash when it was all done.

You then tap in the S15 stub axles, and bolt back on the rear cover. You cannot use the 5 bolt stub axles (from the viscous diff) on the helical diff centre, as they are different lengths.

I then reinstalled the diff onto the car, and bolted it up to the "6 Bolt" S15 half shafts.

I did this all by myself (with a little help from the wife) last weekend. The hardest thing is getting the bolts undone that hold the crown wheel onto the diff centre. A good vice and a breaker bar did the trick (my rattle gun didn't have the power).

There's a good tutorial on "R33 LSD shimming" in the DIY section, which explains how to remove the diff and crown wheel etc, and the rest you should be able to work out. (but if you have any dramas, just get in touch with me)

In all, I'm very happy with the upgrade, so if you can find an S15 diff and half shafts for the right price, go for it.

Ryno

Edited by Ryno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305594-s15-diff-into-r32/
Share on other sites

I assume you are referring to a torsen (torque-sensing) centre.

Helical is a style of gear cutting...

e.g straight-cut or helical (angle-cut)

Suppose if you came across a s15 setup cheap enough could be a good mod but still no match for a mechanical LSD in a race situation.

You are correct in saying it is a Torsen centre, however it is the "Helical" type. The other two main types of Torsen centres are referred to as "Parallel Gear" and "Planetary".

I'm not sure why everyone refers to the S15 Helical centre as helical and not Torsen, but that seems to be the case.

The setup cost me $250, so I can't complain about the cost.

As for performance, I couldn't be happier with it. My Skyline is my daily drive, so going with a mechanical centre or spool type (which may be better for the track) doesn't really suit the driving I do.

All I can say is, it's a massive improvement over my old viscous LSD centre. It gives off no diff noise, and behaves just as awesome going in and out of the driveway every morning, as it does when giving it the berries in a fast sweeper.

  • 2 weeks later...

awesome write up!

I was going to put a S15 Helical into my R33, but thought the shafts wouldn't fit due to the output shaft differences, so I ended up getting a Nismo 1.5 way and now too lazy to put it in.

  • 1 year later...

Old thread..

So same applies with the R33?

The S15 mechanical centre can be swapped in easily enough? Would this be a reasonable upgrade to allow some limited drifting. The current VLSD seems to single spin all the time

I called a diff shop today re. other options: They told me I needed to source a plate type mechanical cenre for my diff so they could put in a Nismo centre. They said my model or some of the nissan's came standard with the plate type mechnical.

I take it the helical centre of the S15 is not a plate type LSD.. so I'm not sure what they are talking about.

I assume that since the VLSD can not be pulled apart they need a housing to place the nismo centre??

Any ideas?

Might be worth trying the S15 centre first with the R33 gear sets and see how that feels.

I'm thinking this may be better than shimming of the R33 vlsd.

I'm not sure what a plate type centre is? The LSD centre bolts into the crown wheel (the S15 helical and clutch type both fit). The important differences between the centres is the required shaft diameter and number of splines that exits both sides of the centre. AFAIK the S15 centres requires the S15 output shafts which are a 6 bolt type - so they won't bolt to the Skyline 5-bolt axles. So you need the complete half shafts with the centre.

Not sure if this will help.

im not totaly sure what you diff shop means but at a guess i think thay are taking about GTR diffs as they are mechanical from the factory and can be rebuilt using nismo parts.

otherwise if you get a nismo diff to suit a r33 gtst it comes as a complete centre. you just need to change over the crown wheel to the new center and pop it in. simple as that.

i belive a properly rebuilt Vlsd would work ok for a while. most people just shim them to be locked.

dont get a cheap mechanical diff if its a street car as they tend to be very noisy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...