R33 - 300rwkw! HELPP

[MRK25T]

Hey.

I got a pretty much stock r33 at the moment, and i got $11k to spend on mods to get it to, or past 300rwkw

Could someone please give me a list of mods, to get it up that high, and a place to get it done within melbourne.. also.. the rough price..

Thanks!

Figure out what parts you need to get 300rwkw, then do some shopping at Nengun (http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/) and other favoured places. You'll cut down your costs if you shop around.

[benm]

Why do you "need" 300rwkw? Making the 300rwkw isn't difficult (it only takes money), but putting it to the ground is much more difficult.

I hope you have included $5k into your budget for a set of wheels + fat tyres and also some decent suspension to support it all. Damn now your down to $6k which is enuff for the basic mods without even touching your Turbo and you still won't even have 200rwkw.

Using my very limited knowledge I think it would take around $20k to turn a near-stock R33 GTS-T (~150rwkw) into a reliable 300rwkw car. Their is alot more to it then just throwing on a bigger turbo and aftermarket ECU if you want it to get you to work and back 5x a week.

[RNS11Z]

Yepp, buy a GTR.

No use having all that power if you can put it to the ground until 3rd gear !!!

Remembering that a 240rwkw GTR could well be street-faster than a 300rwkw GTS-t...

Just something to think about.

J

Last time i raced a gtr which had 260kw @ all 4 im pretty sure i left it for a few car lengths??

The advantages the gtr has is the extra 100cc ,4wd and etc, but then would you want the extra weight?? (not putting the gtr down its an awesome road car)

each to there own. do what you like, not what others prefer.

H.

[Guest INASNT]

once rolling the extra traction of a gtr aint gonna come into the equation.

[Jay95R33]

once rolling the extra traction of a gtr aint gonna come into the equation.

Depends on what you call a rolling start.

A 300rwkw GTS-t will still bag the crap out of the rear wheels at 60km/h in second, and probably at 80km/h in 3rd.

So do you wait until your doing 110km/h in 4th to floor it and use all the power (just hypothetical (sp))?

Again, it's up to personal choice. But for me I would want maximum traction at all speeds, and that calls for 4wd.

J

[cameron]

get the rb26dett engine with the 4 wheel drive conversion,

cheaper and u'll have a lighter body.

thats what i'd be doing, better then spending it on your rb25dett,

to get up to the power your looking for u'll need,

aftermarket ecu (2k),dump pipes (300) , bigger turbos (4k),pods,frnt mount (1.5k),exhaust (1k),pod filter (200), (ebc - lets say avc-r (900), thats just performance wise then u'll want stuff like boost guages (90) and so on, also aftermarket supension (1k) and the list goes on.. dude thats almost 10k.

if you get conversion you can sell the rb25det and get say 3k for it and then you can do some mods to the rb26

at the end of the day its upto you.

you could always give me the money i'll spend it

[knore]

I cant beleive what the last few threads have said

They dont call GTR Godzilla for nothing, GTRs are supercars, gtst are like their really little brother.

Dont think im a gtst hater etc i own one and they are mad, but after a proper drive in 96 GTR vspec i instantly fell inlove like i did when i first drove the gtst that i now own. The GTR has a totally different feel.

Saying 'ide rather spend $15-20K+ on my GTSt than buy a GTR' is stupid if you ask me

Stock GTRs shit on worked GTSt's all over the road, get a GTR learn how to drive it good = beat everyone and be envied while doing it

and 99% of you gtst owners out there: Dont deny youve always wanted a GTR and mainly bought a GTSt to work your way towards a GTR

Different toys for different boys, at the end of the day, i know which car ide rather buy given i had the right amount of money

[GTRgeoff]

This is a great thread and some very valid points. Knore is so right, I would rather be pedalling a GTR myself. At my last track outing in the belting rain the setup on my R33 GTSt left me understeering into corners, oversteering out of corners, wheelspinning through third and wheelspinning in fourth up to 180kmh if I used full throttle over 4000rpm. The GTR's out there were kicking ass and getting oversteer for the fun of it, especially a nice 32.

Why I haven't upgraded, even to a 32 GTR is because to have a bit of fun, you have to be so much more committed and prepared to go heaps faster. If it comes unstuck you must expect to wear it big time and anything less is a bonus. So I am now trying to enjoy a bit of track time without going fast enough to get into real trouble, and 200kmh in the wet at Sandown was good enough at this stage without electronic safety aids.

Seriously though, 220-250rwkw is more than enough on the street. I still get wheelspin at various times in 3rd especially if the road surface is coarse.

If you have no experience in a hard running car then build up slowly and spend some of that cash on driver training like at Driver Dynamics at Tulla (Yo ScottieB...free plug). The boost will kill you if you aren't prepared. PM me if you want to discuss my experience and mods and where I am working to now.

[Roy]

Id love 300rwkws as much as the next guy, but considering what i do with my car i couldnt justify the spend. Just be sure you really need that much power before spending all that money.

Im coming to the realisation that the money in the bank and doing monthly track days is more fun then having a highly modded car that hasnt seen the track in 5 months

[PRO_32]

Reading through this Thread i notice everyone is pretty much on the money, Thing is it comes down to driving style and preferance at 300rwkw I hope you can be a pretty responsible driver because with the traction issues you will have there is big potential of things getting really pairshaped for you, I wouldnt recomend someone who doesnt have much experiance in powerful cars to jump right in and learn with that much power.

Also dont forget BRAKES you would want to go atleast something like Brembo calipers of an R with some bigger disc's 300mm or thereabouts.

anywayz my 2c

[hippy]

also dont' forget to budget for some extra driver training ... thats if you need it

[Guest INASNT]

Thats what nittos are there for.

[gtrken]

Interesting thread and some alternative views on the merits of GTS-T/GTR.

I have owned a few R32 GTR's and now have just bought an R33GTS-T to develop as one of our shop cars.

I hear everyone saying * why did you sell the R for the T ????*.

Answer is cos I want to have fun and not have to prove anything...

When you run a GTR , people EXPECT you to win ( and yes I did win the ENJO SES in WAust)but everyone spends there time trying to drag you , race you , compare their car to you and try and beat it,put you or the car down.

They are an awesome car and for those amongst us with the money and desire to win , then I say go for it.Trouble is now over here we are getting some quick R's up and running so the repair bills are going thru the roof. I know of at least 5 boxes destroyed between 2 cars with all of them forced to a dog set up.

4wd traction means 4wd strain on components.

2wd equates to less grip but less strain and wheelspin can be fun...

Anyway enough , back to topic. We are looking at using an RB30/RB25 combo running our own spec turbo/manifold setup and thru a wolf/autronic ( depending on budget.

Will use forgies but then keep costs down with careful prep ( ie shotpeen, balance,linish,cryo) the original parts.Develop our own exhaust/dump and then spend the time on our Dyno Dynamics dyno to tune the package for ULP98.

Hope to see 420rwhp with strong midrange torque and keep revs below 7,500.

It will be fun and will keep you all informed.

Cheers

Ken

[Guest INASNT]

Very interesting points raised between gts-t and gtr's.

My preference to do up my gts-t was because i wanted to spend a few $$ on it doing it up as a street weapon and i would still save a bit of $$ from buying a R33 GTR and then doing it up which i was going to do 6 months ago because at the moment i can afford one without 2 many problems (thankyou new job ).

But then i thought i would buy a house, which will be very soon, and then borrow against the house and pay fark all interest when i get my next car.

[R31Nismoid]

11k is a bit optimistic.

The turbo/manifold alone... plus ECU and tuning will set you back 6-7k.

and that's not doing ALL the other supporting elements like suspension/rubber/brakes/I-C/injectors/fuel system

all of which then send your bill to around the 15-20k mark.

I myself am chasing 300rwkw. About to purchase the turbo to get me there.

But then, my car already has every mod under the sun except for a motor re-build with stronger internals.

Also, for a motor re-build... i dunno if your 7k allocation will be enough. I've done my sums and i come up with a fair bit more than 7k for a motor.

But that's no doing it myself... because im useless

[RNS11Z]

for a good reliable 300rwkw engine put aside atleast 16g, thats how much i have spent so far. If not more.

for 10-12g be happy with 250-270rwkw on standard internals.

[GTRgeoff]

Doing the work yourself really helps, and can be pretty satisfying, just leave the specialised stuff to the experts.

Ken, your philosophy is good. I am not too keen anymore one beating the whole pack. A couple too many offs in F Ford and U2L Sports Sedans and Q'land rally champs to want to try that anymore. Just time for a little fun and make a few bucks.

Hope the tuning shop works out and you don't get too many DIYers like me and looking forward to more news on the buildup.

[hungry6]

Ok i for unknown reason have owned both r32-33 gtr and now drive a rb26det r33gtst,

To simply sum it up, the GTR is a fearsomely track car

and quiet quick in a straight. but unreliable due to machanical reasons with extra grip for virtually the same box as the gts.

where as the gtst is a good cruiser and can be a deceptively fast street car in a straight line. but u will need the help of semi slick for road uses if 300+rwkw

i'm not going to quote how many rwkw i'm running but with 300+rwkw u are frying the tyres at 120+k/hr but that disapear to a certain point with semi slick,

as for gtst doing track day, a gtr has it plates full if a gtst driver rolls up with semi slick.

Also it hell more expensive to modify a gtr than a gtst.

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys, quite interesting this GTR versus GTST comparisons. I have only one reason for racing a GTST. Cost! For the same lap times, I can have a GTST that costs much less then half what our GTR costs. That's original build and maintenance for 24 months as the extra mechanical complexity and weight are telling. If we had a large enough budget then another GTR would be the go, but we don't.

As for guys with severe dry weather traction problems at 300 rwkw, I respectfully suggest that your suspension set up could be underlying cause. I see so many GTST's with way too hard rear springs, lousy rear suspension geometry, ride height set too low with insufficient suspension travel and totally inappropriate damper rates. I am also a believer in removing the HICAS, I have yet to see a GTST that doesn't benefit from removing the rear steering.

I know I have posted this before but just in case, here are the recommended rear suspension settings for a road/drag GTST

Wheel centre to guard – 350 mm

Camber – 0 to 0.5 degrees negative

Toe – in 0 to 0.5 mm each side

Spring rate - not over 200 lbs per inch

Stabiliser bar - not over 24 mm diameter solid bar

Remove the HICAS and replace with solid bar.

Add a set of Koni or Bilstein dampers, valved to suit the spring rates and it will improve the rear traction a great deal.

I did this set up on a R33 GTST a while ago and it improved its 1/4 time by 0.5 of a second. You would need a heap more horsepower (and cash) to get that result from the engine alone.

Sorry if I hijacked the thread there

Happy New Year to all

[gtrken]

Hmmm , yes , I agree with Sydneykid.

There is a lot of time/grip to be gained if people spent more time on alignment/spring rates/weight distribution/tyre choice/brakes in a GTS-T than is commonly led to believe.

The touring cars run the same setup( ie. 600ish hp, rear wheel drive , independent type rear end suspension geometry )and show me a GTR atm that will get the times.

The grip of a GTR is great for launch and out of slow corners , especially in the wet but every where else a properly set up 2wd should be able to match.

It will be fun trying and you may hear from me yet Sydneykid....

Cheers

Ken