Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at 2.8 options myself at the moment, and a tuner responsible for the engines in some of the fastest time attack cars in Japan tells me they are using the Step Zero in the majority of their cars, all of which are producing at least 650PS and have yet to find the limits of the kit - Interesting feedback

It appears the Pistons and Rods included in the Step Zero are the same as those included in the Step 1, leaving the main difference as the crank

Let us know how you get on Blitz, interested.

I am looking at 2.8 options myself at the moment, and a tuner responsible for the engines in some of the fastest time attack cars in Japan tells me they are using the Step Zero in the majority of their cars, all of which are producing at least 650PS and have yet to find the limits of the kit - Interesting feedback

It appears the Pistons and Rods included in the Step Zero are the same as those included in the Step 1, leaving the main difference as the crank

So what is acutally different crank wise from the Step0 to the Step2? Is it just a lighter crank; is it still fully counterweighted?

interested as a future upgrade, hopefully will tally up nice with the my -9 turbos upgrade later this year

noob questions, will this KIT comes with all the bits that normally constitute a "RB26 mid life freshen up :) "

so that all you need is oil pump, coil pack,water pump,etc

does anyone know budget for install of such a kit

GOAL - only after super responsive Street GTR with loads of torque, Power around 280AWKW range, so not much

interested as a future upgrade, hopefully will tally up nice with the my -9 turbos upgrade later this year

noob questions, will this KIT comes with all the bits that normally constitute a "RB26 mid life freshen up :) "

so that all you need is oil pump, coil pack,water pump,etc

does anyone know budget for install of such a kit

GOAL - only after super responsive Street GTR with loads of torque, Power around 280AWKW range, so not much

Here is the HKS spec sheet:

21004-AN009_012.pdf

There are a two different kits available, the full kit including crank, rods, pistons and rings/pins, and the piston-crank kit designed for use with factory rods, which only includes HKS counter weight crank and Pistons.

Both options available with either 86.5 or 87mm pistons

Will do, the kit has been ordered so will be sure to post up some pics and details once it arrives at the workshop :)

Looking forward to your results Nick....

Did you go 86.6 or 87mm pistons?

Did you get the kit with or without rods?

Very tempted at the moment as the kit without rods works out to half the price of the step 2 kit.

Looking forward to your results Nick....

Did you go 86.6 or 87mm pistons?

Did you get the kit with or without rods?

Very tempted at the moment as the kit without rods works out to half the price of the step 2 kit.

Jack,

I was informed by one of the HKS Pro Dealers in Japan that the Step Zero uses the same pistons and rods found in the Step 1 and 2.

I ordered the Full Kit with 86.5mm pistons which is going into a new N1 block :)

I can't find pricing for the step zero.

Is 400,000 yen for the full kit or just crank and pistons. I noticed the full step 2 kit through nengun is close to $9K.

Does the crank and piston kit still come with the rings and pins?

So your still going to use GTSS Nick?

I can't find pricing for the step zero.

Is 400,000 yen for the full kit or just crank and pistons. I noticed the full step 2 kit through nengun is close to $9K.

Does the crank and piston kit still come with the rings and pins?

So your still going to use GTSS Nick?

Hey mate,

The 400,000 Yen is the 'Full Kit', so Crank, Rods, Pistons, Pins, Rings

The 'Piston-Crank' kit is significantly less but doesn't include rods.

Also worth noting for anyone questioning the quality of the kit, is all components are Japanese made.

I already have a new set of GT-SS's at home, so being that the Step Zero is designed for response, im going to chuck the GT-SS's on and see how far I can push them!

At that price it still works out to ber quite an expensive excercise by the time you pay freight, tax's etc.

I think the nitto 2.7 with the billet counter weighted crank might be a better proposition.

They claim it will rev to 12,000 rpm which is a shit load more than the hks zero setup.

  • Like 1

At that price it still works out to ber quite an expensive excercise by the time you pay freight, tax's etc.

I think the nitto 2.7 with the billet counter weighted crank might be a better proposition.

They claim it will rev to 12,000 rpm which is a shit load more than the hks zero setup.

I have seen the Step Zero Full Kit as cheap as 357,000 yen (Approx ~$4,279.00 AUD) - Whats the best price you have found on the Nitto 2.7?

CJ-Motor lists them at over $9,000

Hi Octane lists them at over $7,500.00

Unique Autosports lists them at $8400.00

For a car being built for track purposes, the Step Zero is a fantastic kit, and the power, response and ultimate track performance that some tuners in Japan are achieving with this kit speaks volumes and is more than ample for my application. If I was building a drag car requiring the higher rev limit, it would be a different story.

Hey mate,

The 400,000 Yen is the 'Full Kit', so Crank, Rods, Pistons, Pins, Rings

The 'Piston-Crank' kit is significantly less but doesn't include rods.

Also worth noting for anyone questioning the quality of the kit, is all components are Japanese made.

I already have a new set of GT-SS's at home, so being that the Step Zero is designed for response, im going to chuck the GT-SS's on and see how far I can push them!

Should be good to see!

Any idea on the price of the crank / piston kit?

Rohin.

I have seen the Step Zero Full Kit as cheap as 357,000 yen (Approx ~$4,279.00 AUD) - Whats the best price you have found on the Nitto 2.7?

CJ-Motor lists them at over $9,000

Hi Octane lists them at over $7,500.00

Unique Autosports lists them at $8400.00

For a car being built for track purposes, the Step Zero is a fantastic kit, and the power, response and ultimate track performance that some tuners in Japan are achieving with this kit speaks volumes and is more than ample for my application. If I was building a drag car requiring the higher rev limit, it would be a different story.

You're probably right Blitz, I was quoted around the 7 kay mark when i first enqired about the nitto kit.

The zero setup would be somewhere in the vicinity of 5500/6 kay landed so yeah, Its a fair bit cheaper but as you say, if you wanted to rev it the nitto would be the way to go.

how much labor $$ would we be roughly looking at onto of the $4.5k to get it all together? assuming you have a running rb26

Very interested in the labor cost

at the of the day, you need to budget and at least have ball park figure

how much labour $$ would we be roughly looking at ontop of the $4.5k to get it all together? assuming you have a running rb26

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

quoted for truth

if you have a running rb26 leave it! anyone who pulls a perfectly fine 26 out to build it is mad

building a bottom end is the same whether it was running fine or not (excluding putting a rod out the block of course)

call racepace and get a quote

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

My thoughts exactly and spot on the path I am going down.

I still need to sort out my sump and oil/water pump, plenum and a few other bits, but the block and internals will all be brand new, as will the head and associated hardware which is being setup, ported and assembled by a tuner in Japan then being sent over to me, so the target is to fully assemble the replacement engine and when its ready simply do an out with the old and in with the new swap

^ thought about this as well - reckon it's cheaper to get it put together there and sent out? I was wondering if you got a big workshop to do it, whether they could get parts cheaper than we could

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...