Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nope, they are pretty boring & i'll be in brisbane

Might go. Last one was a bit boring though.

phil- you doing any more tuning tonight?

phil- you doing any more tuning tonight?

Nah not tonight. Finished off most of Pav's S15 last night. Just going to go over the whole tune one more time to make sure everything is safe. Then I can grab the wideband for my car and finish it off.

I want my AEM wideband kit to show up so i can head out for a play with mine

I'll try and remember to ask everyone if there keen for a road trip to townsville. When my GF gets her new Polo GTI we want to go to Townsville for a weekend so that might be a good time, even if my cars not there

Nah not tonight. Finished off most of Pav's S15 last night. Just going to go over the whole tune one more time to make sure everything is safe. Then I can grab the wideband for my car and finish it off.

how has that been going? i've been following his thread on NS, i think you need to invest in a kmon and do a tuning course :whistling: and start making some $$$$.

i'll give you a call later to come & get that dvd.

Yeah most of the tuning is done on it. I havn't really seen his thread (got a link?). Will probably go out one more time and it will pretty much be done. A tuning course would be great just to learn all the little tricks that you can't really pick up on by yourself. Like for example getting a car with a Power FC to idle properly seems near impossible. There is simply bugger all settings for idle and it may be perfect one day but then crap the next.

Also I find the hardest thing about tuning a car is not the actual tuning itself, but the damn troubleshooting of a problem. I completely understand why workshops love tuning brand new Holden and Fords. All the parts are brand new and there is simply nothing wrong with the car. With 15-20 year old cars, gone through 4 different owners with parts ripped off here and there just leads to so many problems that take ages to narrowdown.

I will get a kmon eventually because I want to hard wire it into my car so it pulls timing upon detonation. Would be good to use on Power FCs aswell because I don't really trust those factory knock sensors.

Hey Phil what are you able to tune? Are you able to tune a nistune?

Havn't used Nistune yet. But I hadn't used a Power FC until two weeks ago and picked that up fairly quickly so don't see why Nistune would be any harder.

Yeah most of the tuning is done on it. I havn't really seen his thread (got a link?). Will probably go out one more time and it will pretty much be done. A tuning course would be great just to learn all the little tricks that you can't really pick up on by yourself. Like for example getting a car with a Power FC to idle properly seems near impossible. There is simply bugger all settings for idle and it may be perfect one day but then crap the next.

Also I find the hardest thing about tuning a car is not the actual tuning itself, but the damn troubleshooting of a problem. I completely understand why workshops love tuning brand new Holden and Fords. All the parts are brand new and there is simply nothing wrong with the car. With 15-20 year old cars, gone through 4 different owners with parts ripped off here and there just leads to so many problems that take ages to narrowdown.

I will get a kmon eventually because I want to hard wire it into my car so it pulls timing upon detonation. Would be good to use on Power FCs aswell because I don't really trust those factory knock sensors.

Havn't used Nistune yet. But I hadn't used a Power FC until two weeks ago and picked that up fairly quickly so don't see why Nistune would be any harder.

The guy who does my tuning is really good for this

Playing with timing and fuel he got mine from hunting randomly to running perfect at idle all day every day. Will be one of the things I quiz him about when we have a go at my car with the next mod I have planned

I need this fixed in mine again, I think cause of the lightweight flywheel its a bit funny at idle at times. I can see how that would be the case, taking a few kilos of rotating mass when the engine is at its laziest point

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...