Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my set up dynoed yesterday and had a few issues... mainly the good old missfires and then the gate decided to stay stuck open, pulled it apart and cleaned it out and was ok after that.

however its painfully slow to build boost and the boost graph looks like a gradual slope instead of ramping up and staying there. Im running a bleed valve on there atm and im led to believe that an EBC should be the way to go.

however we tested the spring from the HKS gate and its only a 0.6 bar item... not quite the 1 bar one i thought it was. So its quite soft and i dont think that a ebc will cope with running over double the rated spring pressure.

if i got a 1 bar spring, will it ramp up harder? considering the spring is slowly opening now as it builds boost i reckon it will.

target boost is around 1.1 - 1.2 bar

take the vac line off the gate and see when it hits the boost you want, back off as soon as it does tho. if the boost graphs looks good like that then you need a better boost controller, if its still no good then try a firmer spring. i find the profec b good for this stuff, as you can set exactly what boost it allows the gate to see any boost at all, meaning you can keep 0 pressure at the gate all the way up to 1bar if you want.

with good boost control you shouldnt have any trouble running double the rated spring pressure, its far from ideal but it works. i'm holding 22psi perfectly with a 12psi actuator and a profec b

Edited by JonnoHR31

If you put a 1bar spring in there, it will ramp up much harder.

With a 0.6 Bar spring you are more than likely getting gate creep.

I ran 24psi, external gate with a 16psi spring and bleed valve for the other 8psi - worked fine.

However when i was running 14psi using a 7psi spring, i would get massive gate creep even though i was bleeding less.

So without question, you will benefit from a heavier spring. Less work any boost control/valve has to do, the better.

If you want to run 1bar, stick a 1bar spring in there :worship:

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

Sell it, very old outdated technology and you can find better 48mm / 50mm external wastegates locally.

The new Turbosmart 50mm is the goods, or the GFB.

If you want something cheaper get a Tial.

haha out dated lol.

yeh im in same dilemma turbo comes on slower then expected im running 1bar spring running 1.4bar boost

seems 2 build slow.. im running no boost controller though im just tightening the allen key screw on top of wastegate to hold it closed longer

any idea if the length of the vacum line can cause the slower boost building?

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

try get your spring from these guys http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?action=fitting they are in NZ. Daryl young is the guy to speak to. he helped me out with some springs for an old HKS 60mm gate. just get the part number from the HKS website (US or Jap) and give it to him, should be able to help you out

and yes good explanation, "its just a spring and diaphragm" ......... out dated haha???

like i said, go for a drive with the vac line removed. no point buying a heavier spring then having to get an ebc aswell when it doesnt solve your problem. yes it probably will, but test before you buy

HKS springs are colour coded, you will want a yellow one for 16psi, you've probably got a pale blue or white one now???

I'm with you guys, don't see how a WG can be outdated, they are a simple thing and most are all generally pretty much exactly the same except for the bling bling [blue anodising/chrome etc etc]. Spring, diaphragm, and poppet valve!!

Plus if you use SK's formula for WG size, most are too big for my and other gtst applications. I'm doing over 280rwkw and according to SK formula needed a 40mm ie HKS is 40mm. Not saying others don't work, and you can have your 38, 48 or 60mm or whatever, but for optimum efficiency etc its supposed to be 40mm.

I actually got some 1 bar and 1.8 springs made to suit HKS 50mm gates. If you want PM me your wastegate spring Dia. I might be able to help you out with a lot cheaper solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...