Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive seen the effects of using less octaned fuel..

ive ran 95 for a couple weeks and didnt notice much difference but decided to run 98 to be safe..

a friend on the other hand, used 91 in his sr20det and after a few weeks had big problems with lag, backfiring, and idling really rough..

why have a performance car if you dont want to look after it? its a price we gotta pay.

Sorry Mad RON is RON in whatever country you are in. We used to test RON with a variable compression motor, now it is an IR reading and other hi tech stuff. Mixing 92 and 110 will give about a 100-101 RON so it's ok but levelride I though your fuel would have been cheap enough .

You need to take the cheep fuel out of your tank to get your car going. Skylines cannot have this crap fuel in them unless all the seals in the fuel system have been changed too handle these types of fuel.

The fuel is simply 98octane if the car is set too run stock fuel. What has happened as when you were driving with the cheap fuel in there the seals in the fuel system have swolen up and restricted fuel flow. Thats why you slowly got power loss and when you came too idle the drop in fuel pressure was enough for the fuel supply too cut off and stall the car.

I have seen this exact problem you are describing many times with skylines and a 300zx so i can say go ahead too fix it

Ok so being the noob I am, I've been running 91 octane (Shell or Caltex) for the past 9 months in my car. Idles fine, no misfiring etc. Isn't a rocket, but still felt ok to me performance wise. After being told a few days ago I should be running BP Ultimate 98, I've since done over 500kms with this fuel. Car certainly likes it alot better :), and my gas mileage has gotten way better. Havn't noticed any black soot either on my exhaust. But then again I've only done 500km so far with this fuel.

Have I done any lasting damage to my car by running 91? I knew not to run that E10 rubbish, but figured the different octane levels were for performance only, and not the health and well being of the car.

Sorry Mad RON is RON in whatever country you are in. We used to test RON with a variable compression motor, now it is an IR reading and other hi tech stuff. Mixing 92 and 110 will give about a 100-101 RON so it's ok but levelride I though your fuel would have been cheap enough .

sorry mate but i never said RON did i? i said octane (not quite the same thing). and if you do a bit of research you will find that the US octane ratings ARE different to ours because we go off the RON rating and america goes off (RON + MON)/2. and since the MON rating is generally about 8 less than the RON rating (but not always), when you add the 2 together and then halve it it comes out about 4 less than the RON rating.

RON = Research Octane Number

MON = Motor Octane Number

as for fuel being cheap in america, that is somewhat true, but you also have to remember that the minimum wage there is about half of what it is here.

Ok so being the noob I am, I've been running 91 octane (Shell or Caltex) for the past 9 months in my car. Idles fine, no misfiring etc. Isn't a rocket, but still felt ok to me performance wise. After being told a few days ago I should be running BP Ultimate 98, I've since done over 500kms with this fuel. Car certainly likes it alot better :), and my gas mileage has gotten way better. Havn't noticed any black soot either on my exhaust. But then again I've only done 500km so far with this fuel.

Have I done any lasting damage to my car by running 91? I knew not to run that E10 rubbish, but figured the different octane levels were for performance only, and not the health and well being of the car.

there isn't anything wrong with E10 fuels. i've been running it for a few years now, in various cars, as have others i know, without any troubles at all. generally people who have trouble with it aren't actually having trouble with the fuel but the cleaning properties that the fuel has and it breaks down a lot of the garbage in the fuel tank or the fuel filter and it gets deposited in the injectors. this is normally in cars where the fuel filter hasn't been replaced for a few years and is probably full of crap and not filtering very well anyway. very few people have had issues caused by the fuel itself.

as for performance of different fuels, there is actually very little difference in the actual fuel as far as how much performance it gives you. where the performance comes into it is from the octane rating, which is how hard it is to ignite. the higher the octane rating, the harder it is to ignite, so the more advanced timing you can run. on most modern cars the engine has knock sensors which register any pinging and then retard the timing to save the engine from damage. so if you run a car on the lower octane fuel that was designed for higher octane fuel on lower octane fuel then the ecu will retard the timing and you will have less power, meaning you have to use more accelerator (and therefore more fuel) to accelerate or even just cruise at a fixed speed. that is how you are able to get better fuel economy from higher octane fuels. but if you take a basic car that is designed to run on basic fuel you often won't see any gains from running higher octane fuels.

as for any damage you may have done, if the knock sensors aren't working properly, or the engine is still getting pinging once the ecu retards the timing then it can damage spark plugs or ringlands.

We do actually use a RON and MON in Australia. It's just in the oil industry we use RON for simplicity. Before our 98 RON was released ,years of blending and dyno work was done to get the MON up to a high level. As you know MON is more of a driveabilty scale than RON. Research Octane Number is a comparison of the Platformate or Reformate [or what process is used in Catalytic Reforming to in crease the octane of the HSR ]to N-Heptene scale. The reformate or platformate leaves the units and goes to a Ben sat unit to remove the benzene down to levels mandated by govts. Heavy runs to tankage at around 102-105 RON and the lights go a reactor for conversion of the benzene. All these streams and other rundowns go to the blend tank for testing of RON and MON before release to the public. I can't go into specifics as the blending is proprietory knowledge. Obviously in Queensland all or nearly all your gaso comes from Caltex Lytton or BP Bulwar . A small amount may be imported .or in times of shortage or production problems from Caltex Kurnell or Shell Clyde. Though you may get some from India or SE Asia.

you are still ignoring the fact that US octane ratings will always be about 4 octane lower than here. it is common knowledge and has been for about the past god knows how many years. the fuel companies may still us MON when testing fuel, however when it comes to saying what octane their fuel is the simple say what RON it is. you may have a good knowledge of australian fuels, but you seem to have little knowledge about other countries octane ratings.

a prime example of this would be any cars shipped to th US designed to run on premium fuels would have dramatically lower power outputs if the US octane was actually only 92 RON for the premium fuel. the manufacturers would have to detune all the cars, and infact all cars, not just cars designed to run on premium would have to be detuned. yet they all seem to have the same power outputs and don't get detuned.

I guess that as this started as an australian fuel thread , australian RON was main thread ,until level ride, came in with north american octane. since they use AKI as their basis of their octane figure . Still mixing the lower and the higher octane together you will get an improvement on the lower one. 50/50 would give a very close to mid range of the difference. Yes their ECU would be retuned for the differing fuel specs over here, though there isn't a great number of american cars coming this way compared to cars from SE Asia who use a rating the same of very close to ours. But back to australian octane per the thread, on our cars with closed loop systems with knock sensors you will get more power from the higher RON and noticable at that. so use the highest RON you can afford. Interestingly , the sales of 95 ron are up due to govt mandating E 10 with the phasing out of 91. I hope I have a passing knowledge of Australian fuels and manufacture as I have been making it for long enough.

  • 3 weeks later...

depends on what mods you have. if your car is completely stock then you could get away with it, but 98 is the better option. if you are running higher boost or aftermarket ecu (that was tuned on 98) then you'll want to stick with 98. unfortunately that is just one of the many ways that owning a turbo import will empty your wallet.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...