Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i got myself a bit of a pickle here... a few months ago i found out that nizzpro performance did a 1jzgte conversion into nissans. so i went out and bought a r32 shell without a engine and diff which was pretty much all i was looking for. i got the money arranged yesterday so i went into nizzpro this morning to talk to them about exactly what it would cost etc.

so i asked the blokes there about it and he took me through the workshop, telling me the info that i needed to know. after a bit of discussion, he got me onto a rb25 conversion, both looking at it being a bit cheaper, it would only take a bit over a week compared to about a month and more power out of stock internals and is generally better. he seemed to dislike the 1jz conversion a bit more as well.

the original base offer for the 1jzgte with everything included and installed was $7500 (not including diff or suspension), but they've had to bump up the price a bit because of price increases in some of the items they buy to do it. but to get the rb25 in it will cost around the $7000 mark with everything i wanted (suspension and diff included).

iv been searching on the net this afternoon with 1jz vs. rb25 discussions, and everywhere i read that 1jz is a better engine both in potential and strength. so now im feeling very undecided. the car is just going to be a track/drift car so its going to be under the pump a fair bit.

what are your views on 1jzgte vs. rb25det? pros and cons for its intended purpose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307137-1jzget-vs-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

twin turbo 1jz or vvti 1jz? what gearbox?r154 or w58?

power wise, the 1j has it anyday on a pretty well standard engine.

they should really only take the same amount of time unless he doesnt have all the parts there.

either way just be a little bit wary of them

i bought a few things off them a while ago and it took them a long time to get me things id payed for. ie. 1 year later i received the last parts and at the time i had bought 2 rb25's and a shell from them so i was probably their best customer.

In my experience 1J is pretty much bulletproof when MAINTAINED and a hoot to drive no matter what its in just with bolt ons. X10 for the VVTi version

I suppose it comes down to if you want to commit to a conversion. Or just bolt in and go nuts

Some plus points for the 25 is of course bolt in, 5 Speed gearbox is cheaper, aftermarket parts avalibility, and short blocks are prob cheaper when it blows.

But if it was me, and I had the coin to do it properly it would be 1J all the way.

A better comparison is 1J VS RB26

In my experience 1J is pretty much bulletproof when MAINTAINED and a hoot to drive no matter what its in just with bolt ons. X10 for the VVTi version

I suppose it comes down to if you want to commit to a conversion. Or just bolt in and go nuts

Some plus points for the 25 is of course bolt in, 5 Speed gearbox is cheaper, aftermarket parts avalibility, and short blocks are prob cheaper when it blows.

But if it was me, and I had the coin to do it properly it would be 1J all the way.

A better comparison is 1J VS RB26

Not really. Rb26 would be compared to the 2jzgte.

Rb25<1jz<rb26<2jz

$7500 for a RB25 conversion + suspension + diff

I'm assuming the suspension and diff costs at least $3000???

No way a RB25 conversion costs anymore than $4500 at the absolute most, even then that is a silly price.

Not really. Rb26 would be compared to the 2jzgte.

Rb25<1jz<rb26<2jz

If you look at the pecking order, yes, thats how you would compare them.

But I believe that the 1J is a whole lot better then a 25. So not much point comparing them. Each to their own, but this is from what ive seen in front of me.

The day I see a 25 sit on the limiter for 3 minutes laying rubber is the day ill compare it to a 1J. I am no Toyota fanboy either, I own 3 skylines.

$7500 for a RB25 conversion + suspension + diff

I'm assuming the suspension and diff costs at least $3000???

No way a RB25 conversion costs anymore than $4500 at the absolute most, even then that is a silly price.

that includes exhaust, ecu, wiring, exhaust, labour, fmic, alloy rad, 2 way diff, few other bits that im missing etc.

1jz>rb25, but in your case, go the 25, easier, cheaper etc.

it sounds like he doesnt want to do the 1jz conversion, thats why hes trying to talk you into the 25, much easier for him.

theyv done a few recently and said that they'v lost a bit of money on them because prices have gone up on some parts. he was quite happy to still do it, just with his reasoning it seemed like the 25 was better

I think the Toyota engine is superior to the Nissan.

But you're doing a conversion so there's a lot more to look into than simply engine selection.

Before you make any decisions, have a close look at any 1 or 2JZ's installed in a Skyline or Silvia.

The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side to Nissan, so your brake and clutch master cylinders cop a lot of heat, especially as you've mentioned track/drift?

Exhaust will be dropping down in a very crowded area for any RHD vehicle.

You'll be paying someone for this work and it's obvious, the Nissan engine is the easiest (cheap/reliable) option.

engine quality the toyota engines are much better than the nissans.

as far as your conversion goes though, i would stick with the nissan engine as for the extra money that you save on putting the rb25 in you could do some upgrades to it and be better off.

however if it was me doing it, i would scrap the idea of using the r32 shell and just go out and buy a complete r33 gts-t and mod it. cost wise it is going to work out similar, considering the price of 33's these days and what you would get back from selling out the stripped parts. weight wise it is only a fraction heavier than a 32 (would only be a few kg's in it between a 32 with a 25 and a 33), especially once they are both stripped down to track spec. but as i said, that is the way i would go. you can do what you want

Just recently purchased a chaser (1JZ-GTE), and i must say its a better engine than the RB25. Stock vs stock the 1J is deff quicker. Well it feels like it. I have owned a skyline 33 (rb25) for 3 years, and now a chaser. Straight away i could feel the difference.

I would put a rb25 in that 32. Easier, cheaper and it will be less hassles.

I have just completed the rb25 conversion into the r32 - well worth it.

Car has more everything and the swap was pretty simple. From a part point of view the rb25 has it but from an engine point the 1jz

Maybe speak to afew people who have completed the 1j conversion and see what upsides/downside they have exprienced? It cant all be good :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...