Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately one of my stock rear speakers is dead today so it's time for an upgrade! I know R34 has 6.5" stock rear speakers and I'd like to get a set of the same size so it will be a straight fit. But I'm unsure which one I should get as there are too many choices. Any recommendation is welcome! I'm mainly looking at these speakers

http://www.ryda.com.au/Ryda-Car-Audio-6-Ca...-Store-s/81.htm

Also does anyone know what RMS power (or peak power) and impedance the stock speaker has? The speaker performed quite well when it was alive...

And does it really matter if I upgrade the rear speaker but leave the front one unchanged? Or is it better to change all of them?

Many thinks

Edited by Seanos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307288-recommendation-for-r34-rear-speaker/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately one of my stock rear speakers is dead today so it's time for an upgrade! I know R34 has 6.5" stock rear speakers and I'd like to get a set of the same size so it will be a straight fit. But I'm unsure which one I should get as there are too many choices. Any recommendation is welcome! I'm mainly looking at these speakers

http://www.ryda.com.au/Ryda-Car-Audio-6-Ca...-Store-s/81.htm

Also does anyone know what RMS power (or peak power) and impedance the stock speaker has? The speaker performed quite well when it was alive...

And does it really matter if I upgrade the rear speaker but leave the front one unchanged? Or is it better to change all of them?

Many thinks

depends on the rest of your system, if your running on deck power, amp, want rear fill, cost ?

I run rear fill only on mine, with 6.5 separates time aligned to the front ones. but that is more then most people

hints

stay away from wizzer cones, only get a real tweeter coax, super tweeter gimicks are a waste

DO NOT CUT THE DECK FOR 6X9 speakers.. ADR defectable and they suck anyway

from that link , budget based 6.5

Fusion

Pioneer

Kenwood

Sony

Then maybe any of these

Boston

Kicker

Soundstream

JL Audio

I would buy the Kicker separates if those were my choices and redo the rear deck , it will need a recover most likely anyway from years of sunlight even with tint..I did mine is black suede , cuts down on the glare a lot too

dont overlook, Vifa from Jaycar, they are damn great speakers and low cost, if you go separates PM me and I can send you some x-over values for them

dont forget Chris Rodger and a few others on here sell new gear, (shameless plug for chris..lol)

in most cases I would try to match up the speakers with the fronts, always upgrade the fronts first unless your other ones are dead.

sit back and think about how far you want to go with sound , cause you dont want to change gear two or three times if you can help it

http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...amp;productId=6 i got these spl dynamics in my car and they are awsome speakers really good value for $

yeah they use parts from VIFA/MOREL , just like most high end companies speaker lines

just because a speaker cost a lot doesnt mean is the best . the install/amp is at least 50% of the sound quality

stock ones ,, who cares how much power they take,, I break off the magnets into parts to stop shavings in my oil from going thru the motor.. placed near the plug on the oilpan, lol

being only rear fill, if you were going to pick from those speakers on ryda's website, i'd be buying the pioneer TSG-1642R, but really, you need to spend about $150 and get something like Pioneer TSA-1673S or TSA-1683S at least. I have the 1683s in the rear of my car, really everything you could want in a rear fill speaker, nice sounding speaker, good range.. not horribly expensive.

make sure you get something decent in the front though, dont be tight there.

oh, and everything ^^^^ is assuming you have an aftermarket deck, if you have the factory, piss it off and do it all at once.

Whoa that was a lot of good info guys! I was not in a position to spend big $ to upgrade the entire audio system. My original thought was because one of the rear speaker is dead I'd like to get a better set and hopefully can install it by myself. I'd say my budget for a set is under $150.

Since I'm running the speakers on the deck power (no amplifier) I don't want to get something that overkill. I know that for bigger speakers you need to upgrade the wire as well as adding an amp to match. From memory I think the deck has 4x60w output but not sure if that's peak power or RMS.

Another concern of mine is upgrading the rear but leave the front ones unchanged will create worse sound as the difference in the quality of the speakers is too great. I can definitely stretch a bit to get 2 set of speakers and change both front and rear however I'm not confident that I can do the front ones as you have to remove the trims…

Is the price for SPL Dynamics for a pair or just a single? (http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=6)

Whoa that was a lot of good info guys! I was not in a position to spend big $ to upgrade the entire audio system. My original thought was because one of the rear speaker is dead I'd like to get a better set and hopefully can install it by myself. I'd say my budget for a set is under $150.

Since I'm running the speakers on the deck power (no amplifier) I don't want to get something that overkill. I know that for bigger speakers you need to upgrade the wire as well as adding an amp to match. From memory I think the deck has 4x60w output but not sure if that's peak power or RMS.

Another concern of mine is upgrading the rear but leave the front ones unchanged will create worse sound as the difference in the quality of the speakers is too great. I can definitely stretch a bit to get 2 set of speakers and change both front and rear however I'm not confident that I can do the front ones as you have to remove the trims…

Is the price for SPL Dynamics for a pair or just a single? (http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=6)

Dont forget ......in a real world , deck power is more like 17Watts to 25watts RMS , (unless it has real mosfets outputs) , the instant power for 1milli second is 60watts at 10% or more distortion on IC power chips that might be rated at 60watts max output,

remember ,underpowered distortion kills speakers faster then too much power

if you plan on a amp in the future then disconnect the rear speakers for now, spend the money on some good front speakers instead. . you dont need to update the wires unless you plan on serious power , you can tie into the main speaker harness behind the radio for the fronts (most generic installers dont change the wires into the doors without $$$$, its a pain compared to using the factory tie in)

and your front trims are easy to remove(check the how too section here for directions how to pop off the trim), the back ones take much longer to get at, depending on whats in there already.

and get back to chris, Im sure he can find speakers for a decent price, with customer service and smile...hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...