Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

great, just what shannons needs....more young people in imports to work for them.

they need to go back to their roots and have more muscle car fans/enthusiasts working for them.

I can see everyones premiums going up with the new business these guyys will be putting on

heaps mad.

great, just what shannons needs....more young people in imports to work for them.

they need to go back to their roots and have more muscle car fans/enthusiasts working for them.

I can see everyones premiums going up with the new business these guyys will be putting on

heaps mad.

why are you implying that people need to own a muscle car to be an enthusiast?

last time I checked, age nor the car they drive has any bearing upon enthusiasm. Dumb comment.

-D

Could be interesting though having an import enthusiast working at Shannons with inside knowledge of the mods import owners are making. I see alot of claims being denied if honesty/loyalty (to Shannons) was enforced by employee.

I wouldn't say a dumb comment at all :P

just don't winge when yr premiums go up to compensate

that's all I'll say on the matter on a public forum lol

Pretty sure a young, keen employee vs. some older man, who hasn't got anywhere near as much working life in him left, that won't grow as much within the company is better.

What difference is it going to make with a younger person working for the company as far as your premiums are worth? Young kids are going to get insured by them whether the person be young or old on the other side of the phone....? Drop kick.

Pretty sure a young, keen employee vs. some older man, who hasn't got anywhere near as much working life in him left, that won't grow as much within the company is better.

What difference is it going to make with a younger person working for the company as far as your premiums are worth? Young kids are going to get insured by them whether the person be young or old on the other side of the phone....? Drop kick.

Shouldn't make a difference to premiums at all.

Would be interesting though if someone made a claim and it were denied because the younger import savvy employee sends an assessor to look for e.g. a ebc/pfc ect ect ect in your car.

I just rang Shannons (along with a number of other specialty insurers) today for a quote on a multiple car policy.

Over the last 12 years of import ownership, I’ve had my share of good and bad experiences. I’ve seen almost everything, companies with seemingly outstanding customer service and very comprehensive and competitively priced policies, only to be let down when renewing my policy despite no claims or issues from my end at all. Sometimes it’s all comes down to the actions of other policyholders with the same car.

That all said I found Shannons to be very competitive by comparison to a number of other insurers in the market. It also pays to shop around every few years; you never know how cheap another insurer is prepared to go, one insurer offered $100 off after I said the quote was too steep. It also helps to combine multiple policies through the one insurer – cars, contents, etc. Limited and Extreme Limited Use is another option for those with once in a blue moon garage toys – up to $300 difference in some cases.

Correct

the big thing with Shannon is they want the car in a lock up garage, a Skyline cant be kept in the drive way

that being said they insured my Ti pintara with scratch and dent for $4700 even written on the policy scratch and dent and they know thats in my driveway but its not a targeted car for theft

i was always happy with the level of service i had from Famous and i hear someone else is happy with them too (wont say who but they know who im talking about)

Correct

the big thing with Shannon is they want the car in a lock up garage, a Skyline cant be kept in the drive way

that being said they insured my Ti pintara with scratch and dent for $4700 even written on the policy scratch and dent and they know thats in my driveway but its not a targeted car for theft

i was always happy with the level of service i had from Famous and i hear someone else is happy with them too (wont say who but they know who im talking about)

Well, Justcars give me the shits and Shannons wont insure me. :P Rant rant rant.

Well, Justcars give me the shits and Shannons wont insure me. :) Rant rant rant.

is that due to your age or that you dont have the car in a lockup garage?

I remember when I got my first quote from shannons, they insisted it would have to be in a lock up garage.... and my father is going senile and sometimes forgets to lock the mechanism after taking his mercedes out, so I ended up rather paranoid for a while. I figure tho, it being in a garage, with a clublock, immobiliser and alarm, 2 dogs and a katana nearby for good measure, the car aint going anywhere...

-D

i have a locked gate, with a locked roller door and 2 locked cars in front of it. Security shouldnt be an issue. Age is probably the issue, however, what makes my rating 2 any different from a 40 year old with a rating 2?

i have a locked gate, with a locked roller door and 2 locked cars in front of it. Security shouldnt be an issue. Age is probably the issue, however, what makes my rating 2 any different from a 40 year old with a rating 2?

hrm dunno. strange thing is, i managed to keep a rating 1 over the last few years, and thats even after crashing my car while DUI... had a $200 premium paid to AAMI back in the day and they kept me at rating 1 in spite of the DUI crash and then writing off my R31 about a year later

Go figure. Doesn't quite seem fair to me.

-D

great, just what shannons needs....more young people in imports to work for them.

they need to go back to their roots and have more muscle car fans/enthusiasts working for them.

I can see everyones premiums going up with the new business these guyys will be putting on

heaps mad.

hmm i dont get what your trying to say here man...

i thought that, despite who they have working for them no matter what they drive, like or age, before the claim or can get approval for insurence it has to go through some sort of safe gaurds like their computer system or superior of some kind.

they person on the phone doesnt just get to say yes or no.

a freind of mine has his limited edition monty carlo vr4, mira, another galant, an old school gts manaro and since hes co-owner of my drift car, that too. all mods are listed too.

since hes young but drives an import and an old school muscle car, would that still make him a bad employee because he drives an import too? a car enthusiast is a car enthusiast no matter what car they own or age.

not having a go dude, just dont like sterotyping :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...