Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok removed the rear window tint due to being to bubly and wont to go darker.

now that i removed the tint it has left a glue on the window.

im currently useing wax and greas remover but it's takeing ages and requires a lot of force to dislodge. did try metho to no avail.

does any one know of something that can 'cut' the glue with out scratching the glass and demister.

brentt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307703-removing-tinit-glue/
Share on other sites

if youve got a clothes steamer or one of those general house cleaner steamer thingo's that usually works.

if you started with using the steamer you wouldnt have had the glue problem, the tints would've come off without the glue staying on the glass. so use the steamer and a razor.

I was going to say Metho and get scrubbing!

Straight Metho too, no diluting.

I have also used paint stripper to remove adhesive off glass, but I don't think that is a good idea to use in your car.

It is very corrosive and you need to hose it off.

You could apply a little bit of paint stripper and get a bucket of water and a wet a cloth and wipe if off...

Just be careful not to get the paint stripper anywhere on the interior of the car and yourself.

OK - if you're dissatisfied with the methylated spirits...

Plan B:- I used to work in pharmacy.

And some detailers used to come in and buy pure acetone to clean glass back to its pristine state.

Acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover - but without the oil.

Pathology labs use acetone to clean glass slides for microscopy.

To test-clean, use a bit of your Mum's nail polish remover on a small patch of the rear windscreen and if it's effective, go to the chemist and get 100ml of the pure stuff. Keep the windows open whilst using it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...