Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Gals, bought these turbos second hand however they appear to have different exhaust wheels than that of a mates R34, these have more fins on the exhaust, how can I tell if they are metal or upgraded wheels?

Here are some photos

post-64397-1266139090_thumb.jpg

post-64397-1266139116_thumb.jpg

i magnet comes to mind to test for metal...

Cheers mate, did not think of something as simple as a magnet, turns out that the exhaust wheel is definately ceramic as with the nut holding it together, what are your thoughts about fitting these out with metal wheels and 360 degree thrust bearing?

Can I then run a couple pounds boost above the 1 bar currently?

Hi there, can you elaborate, "a bugger if non ferrous metal" ?? cheers

non-ferrous metals are not magnetic.

They are just trying to correct me about my magnet comment :)

However, given we are talking turbos (without inconel and so on), the magnet is applicable as stated.

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

Hi there, thank you for taking the time and providing me a solution with another brand over Garrett, however without disregarding what I have learnt here can you advise me if there is any Garrett Turbo Charger as a direct replacement over standard which would provide minimal lag and alternative over HKS etc The question may be asked why........? the only answer being I want to keep the old girl fairly original (a change for me) as in original brand name parts to achieve a better result and achieve reliability. Turbo's to still be Garrett, what would the model number should I source, appreciate your help, cheers

Grey Ghost the 707160-9 is made by Garrett for HKS , all HKS do is get them from Garrett without the Garrett wastegate actuator and supply their own higher rated ones .

707160-9 , Garrett turbo for a Garrett price .

Why better than std units ? More modern wheels and a lower friction longer lasting bearing system .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...