Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I have just bought a new (old) car and as far as i know there aren't any others around like mine.

It is an R30 Hatchback with the L20ET engine, I was just wondering if anyone knows of someone who has done this conversion??

Also, if anyone has any experience with them and tuning them please reply or pm me. I am only running the mods in my signature.

Cheers everyone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30860-does-anybody-own-the-same-car-as-me/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

No its not a GT or Paul Newman model it is just an oz-spec Skyline with an engine conversion.

GTRman1992, I have only had the car for a few days and the previous owner is still looking for is manual to the ECU, so I leave the hand controller alone. He said it has spent hours on the dyno and did not have a problem with the Wolf3D at all. The only negative thing I have to say about it is that the hand controller/display looks so dated compared to the A'PEXi Power FC but it is fun seeing exactly what boost you are running etc etc...

So to cut a long story short, I like the Wolf3D and tuners shouldnt have any probs with it.

Hope that helps.

Later

Also, does anyone know much about the L20ET. I can't seem to find much on this forum or the net in general, just things like what to look out for and how much boost it can take. I have heard that an RB25 turbo is a bolt on swap save for the dump pipe, does anyone know this for certain?

Thanks again

yeah i have the same car an oz hatch skyline, my though is as stock as they come. i heard that cutting a hole in the air intake will do it some good make it sound nice.

i am always on the look for info on the car but there is not much around.

If you find anything let me know

cheers.

i know a bit about the L20 engine but not the L20ET...

On the other hand i know a lot about the Z20ET, have rebuilt a few of these....

what do u wanna know and can u get me a pic of this engine so i will see if i can recognize it or compare it to the Z series or N/A L series engines..

Cheers

there is a bit of info here on this engine, what i know is thats it around 141hp at the fly, the turbo has a metal shaft, the airflow meter is very restrictive (about the size of a matchbox), they seem to be very unreliable, i have one (l20et) still with the gearbox just sitting in the garage with the entention of putting the head on to a hatch l24e i also have sitting there! i'll get around to that one day! there is a thread here somewhere that has the specs for the l20et, also theres either a HPI or ZOOM mag in the last 3 to 4 issues that has all the specs aswell! HP/compression/torqueand other things.

I have the same R30 (hatchback). I was going to do the conversion, but the A/C got in the way of a small front-mount (stock RB20). And having spent $600 getting the A/C working, I wasn't going to trash it! So I'm planning to sell the hatchback and get the sedan - rip the A/C out so I can fit the IC.

The L20ET I was going to fit now has a RB20DET BB hanging off the side.

The L20 only runs 7.5 CR, so its pretty gutless off-boost. I think it would be better if you simply removed the manifold gear and bolted it up to the L24. The L24 runs 8.5 CR, which could quite easily accept 1 bar of boost without too many problems.

im hoping all i'll need is a new gasget as i'll have a full 2 1/2" straight through exhaust for the r30 as well by then!

i've also got a mate with a paul newman version l20et who said he is running 22psi boost, he wont tell me what else hes done through? p.s. he has no intercooler as he lost 6psi running it?? gets around 200hp at the fly???

I have the same R30 (hatchback). I was going to do the conversion, but the A/C got in the way of a small front-mount (stock RB20). And having spent $600 getting the A/C working, I wasn't going to trash it! So I'm planning to sell the hatchback and get the sedan - rip the A/C out so I can fit the IC.

The L20ET I was going to fit now has a RB20DET BB hanging off the side.

The L20 only runs 7.5 CR, so its pretty gutless off-boost. I think it would be better if you simply removed the manifold gear and bolted it up to the L24. The L24 runs 8.5 CR, which could quite easily accept 1 bar of boost without too many problems.

so you think all i'll need to do is bolt up the manifold and she'll fire up? what adout the ecu which would be better l24e or l20et? thats where i think the problem would be!

PHONTON-XL- i think you'll always find little info on the l20et thats helpful as all i've read has been bad, worst engine nissans produced type stuff! it sucks

Hey everyone,  

I have just bought a new (old) car and as far as i know there aren't any others around like mine.  

It is an R30 Hatchback with the L20ET engine, I was just wondering if anyone knows of someone who has done this conversion??  

Also, if anyone has any experience with them and tuning them please reply or pm me. I am only running the mods in my signature.

Cheers everyone

i've seen jp websites with pics of hatchs running l20ets but they seen to all be transplants from the l24e with other upgrades, front ends, tail lights and badges. running the wolf 3D is the best option as it has alot of future potions in terms of turbo you run, injectors, boost, fuel system. do you need a afm with the wolf3D or not? i think thats the first step to good power!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey everyone sorry i havent been on for a while...

by the sounds of it the rb20 turbo should bolt straight up? I know what you mean rsx84........ everyone says it is a shit engine because 'someone told them'. I see a lot of potential in them and am hoping for about 160-200kw atw from my engine. Not sure about the airflow meter.... it has an oxy sensor is this run off the afm?? If anyone can give me some tips, eg, how much boost to run, most effective mods please pm me.

Cheers again

wolf 3d use a MAP sensor.

i think the stock power figure is like 130hp at fly.

nothing really wrong with the engine, but seeing as my L28E is putting out about 180hp it seams a bit weak for a turbo car.

so like you said, RB20/25 turbo, FMIC, boost and the addition of the wolf3d would make it a much better car. you may find you will need bigger injectors though chasing that power figure

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...