Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3076r + Manifold

l0WRB

By l0WRB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

45ULT Rising Star

45ULT

Posted
Posted

i have the set up u are putting on my car. 3076r with .82 housing and 38mm gate off standard exhaust manifold. it is an awesome turbo setup. on 16psi with step 1 cams and built engine i made 285kw with a very conservative tune (very little timing, rich afr's). My next step is to push the standard exhaust manifold as far as it can go to see if how far over 300kw it will go. I have noticed that most of the setups that stop making power around the 300 mark are using the .63 housing.

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

the stock cams are 350 capable, wait for ash to chime in. but im a believer anyhow.

stock manifold begins to hold you back above 300, the .63 doesnt seem to be an issue tho, its doing the numbers provided used with a good manifold and gate.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
you wont get much more than 320kw out of the 0.82 version on pump fuel (98) you need E85 or some other exotic fuel/effective octane enhancer to get much more

Ye that's pretty much where the upper limits are going to be.

E85 would see you around the 350rwkw marker. Maybe a tad more, maybe a tad less, always subjective.

I was making 270rwkw @ 17psi with a bad 3" exhaust, factory cams, GTS-R manifold.

Held to 8000rpm no problems (GT3040/600hp).

I wish I'd had a chance to test it with a proper 3.5" exhaust that flowed nicely, would have seen over 300rwkw without much of a fuss was the general consensus and this was what… 4 years ago now.

Ended up making 370rwkw on 104 octane/24psi. Guilty-Toy made ~350rwkw factory head with a GT35 in a 3ltr not that long after.

45ULT - most setups (RB25/30s) have all run out around the 300rwkw marker factory exhaust manifold… a few have tried to go further and not really seen much gain. I believe some of those were using GT35's are well.

Change the manifold as well and then I think there was around a 20-30rwkw gain, and nicer midrange once everything was flowing inline with requirements so perhaps have a dig in the RB30 section of the forum.

I'm all for taking stock parts to untested waters, many said for ages you couldn’t make 300rwkw on factory cams (RB25 & 26)… and now there is a good number of cars over that. Some RB26’s making 380rwkw – factory cams!

It would just seem however the RB25 exhaust manifold just don’t have much to offer. That’s not to say there is anything wrong with it. Just don’t hope for much more than 300rwkw, and if you make more then count yourself lucky (but remember a manifold change, could well offer some decent $$ vs gain improvements)

45ULT Rising Star

45ULT

Posted
Posted
Ye that's pretty much where the upper limits are going to be.

E85 would see you around the 350rwkw marker. Maybe a tad more, maybe a tad less, always subjective.

I was making 270rwkw @ 17psi with a bad 3" exhaust, factory cams, GTS-R manifold.

Held to 8000rpm no problems (GT3040/600hp).

I wish I'd had a chance to test it with a proper 3.5" exhaust that flowed nicely, would have seen over 300rwkw without much of a fuss was the general consensus and this was what… 4 years ago now.

Ended up making 370rwkw on 104 octane/24psi. Guilty-Toy made ~350rwkw factory head with a GT35 in a 3ltr not that long after.

45ULT - most setups (RB25/30s) have all run out around the 300rwkw marker factory exhaust manifold… a few have tried to go further and not really seen much gain. I believe some of those were using GT35's are well.

Change the manifold as well and then I think there was around a 20-30rwkw gain, and nicer midrange once everything was flowing inline with requirements so perhaps have a dig in the RB30 section of the forum.

I'm all for taking stock parts to untested waters, many said for ages you couldn’t make 300rwkw on factory cams (RB25 & 26)… and now there is a good number of cars over that. Some RB26’s making 380rwkw – factory cams!

It would just seem however the RB25 exhaust manifold just don’t have much to offer. That’s not to say there is anything wrong with it. Just don’t hope for much more than 300rwkw, and if you make more then count yourself lucky (but remember a manifold change, could well offer some decent $$ vs gain improvements)

what about extrude honing the exhaust manifold? has anyone had much sucess with this? I am still keen to see how much past 300kw i can get on the stock manifold before i switch to high mount. If i can get close to 320kw i might not even change the setup

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah i realise this, i will look into a ETM item towards middle/end of this year.

aslong as i get close to 280-300rwkw fullboost 4000rpm nice strong mid range, set limiter to 7500rpm and plan on running 21psi if needed .

just hope its more fun then what i had before being the slowest 300kw ive ever felt.

Edited by l0WRB
l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes that is correct one screws into the block and the other joins up to the metal piping that runs back behind the head. i want to know the thread size thats on the banjo bolt that screws into the block :)

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted
brain fart, one of them screws into the block on the exhaust side (-6 fitting), the other goes behind the engine and plugs onto some coolant hose under the intake.
yes that is correct one screws into the block and the other joins up to the metal piping that runs back behind the head. i want to know the thread size thats on the banjo bolt that screws into the block :)

Dash 6 fitting like he said lol

Updates Justin?

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

placing order today for speedflow fittings / hose / firesleeve

me and tuner decided to weld the 50mm gate off the stock exhaust manifold now, saves hacking up a .82 turbine

we are going to try and fit a 4" intake aswell

then on the 5th we strap it 2 rollers and throw 21psi in it haha see what it produces

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes im replacing it with a -6 speedflow fitting barbed but wont the speedflow fitting need to screw onto a adaptor with -6 on the speeflow end and whatever thread on other end that goes into the block? i think im just a bit dumb lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...