Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey JAS, if you're after a cheap alternative check this site out;

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

It's a DIY boost controller, works the same as electronic boost for only $120 odd...

I've had no problems with it, holds boost very well and is easy to adjust... You could have it cabin mounted if you wanted as well!

They've put out an upgrade to it as well, let me know if you have any questions.

Hey guys, i have a turbo smart dual stage controller which i'm waiting to put in.  

Has anyone had any experience with these??

yeh i hated it.

I would spike to 1bar almost every time in 1st and second and would take until 5000rpm in 3rd to reach .8bar which was full boost.

i swaped it for an old style single stage controller from turbosmart.

might just be MY car tho

If you want the best value for money get Greddy Profec-B, satisfaction guaranteed, but if you are into hairstyles than go Profec-E or Apexi.

:flamed:

I am damn sick of people and their opinions on the AVCR, have you people that think its just a fancy screen even used one before?

Go have a look at most of the top times for japanese cars and look what boost controllers they are using, APEXi is not a small nor un-advanced company

They produde amazing electronics, and this one happens to have a 'blow away the compition' screen that comes with it, the screen is amazingly functionable and helps with alot of the controll

the SAFC has the exact same screen.. i dont hear people paying it out for its 'rice' screen.

it is a great EBC, ive helped a few friends use it, and ill be getting one in a few weeks

yeh i hated it.

I would spike to 1bar almost every time in 1st and second and would take until 5000rpm in 3rd to reach .8bar which was full boost.

I've seen that a few times too.

the turbosmart ones spiking hard etc.

I'd personally steer clear of them. A few people i know have had them... and ended up unhappy and sold them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...