Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has a say on the Return Flow type FMIC that are popping up all over the place?

I have been searching around for a decent sized FMIC without going over the top and these have caught my eye due to the fact of no need to cut my REO bar or any other nasty holes in my baby.

Only problems I can see with them at a glance is the fact the return pipe sits VERY low and that nasty bend they often have towards the end of the return pipe. And possibly the sharp change of direction for the air to have to go back towards the turbo.

Just incase I didnt explain it well enough heres a pic of the kit im interested in.

4394306921_1bfd1b69e4_o.jpg

Anyone got some more info on these?

Hi DD i have Blitz kit fitted to S2 Stagea ,you will need to MOD REO but only a small mod ,i had to FOLD 50 mm strip along REO to miss COOLER,i taped the REO marked 50mm on END`S 15mm in middle,then SLOTTED with Hacksaw & the FOLDED it UP,Pic`s here to help, hope this is a HELP cheer`s Chuckie.

post-36964-1267420100_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1267420158_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1267420258_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1267420643_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats for the extra info and pictures Chuckie, very clean install btw.

Thank`s DD i did do some other mod`s to my fitup,

i changed my PIPE`S to same as standard & chopped the bottom fitting so i would keep all stock undertray fitting well i shall take a few more PIC`S & remove REO again & take Pic`s of all bit`s & post up so may be of HELP to someone,but it`s a Good COOLER iam happy with it ,Cheer`s Chuckie.

Thanks mate, I hadn't seen that :)

Unfortunately confirms that I had my test fit correct and 50mm of reo does indeed need to be removed which I think might be too costly in terms of having an insurance claim voided

Talbo you don`t need to REMOVE IT , Just FOLD IT UP then you should be ok ,this is a WORRY for most as they don`t want any hassle`s with INSURANCE COMPANIES,as long as it`s still there you don`t loss any thing,& REALLY with it FOLDED UP may ADD a bit of STRENGHT in steed of LOSING IT ,

GOOD LUCK ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Has anyone put one of these on a S1 or S1.5 R33, Did you have to take a 50mm section of the reo bar out?

If anyone has the R33 blitz instructions, is it possible to get me a scan? Thanks in advance

I think i actually do have a Blitz Instruction book, but i believe its in Japanese. Ill take a peek and post it up anyway if you want.

That's cool guys. At the moment I'm thinking I'm probably going to sell the blitz lm..... just don't feel comfortable taking that much out of the reo and risking an insurance void. Will look at other options like a custom narrow core or I don't fkn know let yet lol :down:

Not worried about power since I know that beautiful Blitz would flow more than what a RB20 would ever make, just trying to find out info about them from anyone who has one.

Response is all Im after at the end of the day, and Im leaning towards the Blitz ATM due to the fact its only $780 and its Blitz so you know its quality. Or a HPI kit of the same style.

HPI is just china gear with a jap twist :)

lol at ARC prices, they will have same power levels as fmic with loads more response.

Cheaper alternative is the 34 smic theyre good for the power your asking and flow very well. They use 80mm core, i have used them with 220-230 and been very happy compared to my fmic setups.

Both junk, ignore these recomendations. They are heat soak kings. TBH there is no WAY IN HELL they support a consistent safe 220-230rwkw, we've proved how poor they are on numerous occasions. Their turn flow FMIC kits are magic though.

Has anyone put one of these on a S1 or S1.5 R33, Did you have to take a 50mm section of the reo bar out?

If anyone has the R33 blitz instructions, is it possible to get me a scan? Thanks in advance

Yer I had one of these Blitz CS installed on my 1.5 - I had my way with the front bar and the angle grinder but I got there in the end. Significant little chunk out of the REO bar too, but really, if you cut it right and spray the thing black it's barely noticeable. The series 1.5 is good at hiding this too. Series 1.5 front bar also sits lower than the other R33 front bars, so the return pipe sat quite flush. The cooler itself looked a treat...matches very well with the car body as many series 1.5 are the light bluey-silver colour.

My only problem with all these return flow kits: the top brackets never line up 100%...forcing you to make your own top bracket. I don't know how they didn't get this right. It's like every return flow manufacturer has been going off the same incorrect template or something. I mean, they don't seem to be customised towards R33 or R34. Only one I've seen that fits straight up is ARC.

Noticeable difference in response going from side mount to front mount return flow - can probably reduce the effects with a bit of tuning. For what it's worth, on stock boost (7psi?) my car made 165.5rwkw with this cooler and a 3" turbo-back on a very conservative dyno (everyone else reported lower than normal readings for their vehicles on the day).

My only problem with all these return flow kits: the top brackets never line up 100%...forcing you to make your own top bracket. I don't know how they didn't get this right. It's like every return flow manufacturer has been going off the same incorrect template or something. I mean, they don't seem to be customised towards R33 or R34. Only one I've seen that fits straight up is ARC.

funny ive installed maybe 20 (most likely more) and never had an issue with the top bracket, in fact the blitz kit has always come with different r33 and r34 brackets included... even pictured in the instructions.

Id suggest reading them next time you do an install.

The only kits ive found to be out are the cheaper JJR kits but for the saving 5mins of work is no biggie.

I did read the instructions (except for the bits written in Japanese) and tried it in many ways...including with both R33 and R34 brackets which came with the kit. Have you installed on a series 1.5? I don't see how it should make a difference but perhaps the part of the chassis where the top bracket is supposed to bolt on is in a different position. Either that or my car has had a front ender to knock it out of allignment. The cooler is sitting flush with the rest of the car too, i.e. straight and dead centre...it's only this top bracket mounting point that is out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...