Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a friend that lives in maroochydore, qld and he's yellow 1993' rb25det was stolen a while ago, not sure if asking on here is any help but its worth a try, is there anything i can do to possibly track down the car? it was a professional job a few cars got done in his street the same night.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310126-how-to-find-a-stolen-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Three reasons to steal a car.

# Joy ride

# Sell for parts

# Re-birth

Only 1 of those usually results in getting the car back. Guess which one. The answer is no, you can't do sh*t and odds are if it was a 'professional job' then he won't be seeing his car ever again.

+1 for insurance so long as it's 'Agreed Value' Comprehensive & all mods and updated rims noted.

Insurance companies tend to screw the policy holder if he/she only has 'Market Value'

Edited by CARSICK

lol musta been a kid or something, after working around cars for a while i realize they're really easy to steal.Not that i'd steal a car as i've always had my own so theres no need, i had a sunfire with PASSLOCK and installed an ignition from an older car that didnt have it but theres a way to bypass it with a resistor, well i had to use a multimeter first but when i put that on it did something to it and bypassed it lol.The theft light just flashed all the time after that.

gone in 60 seconds, best movie in the world :P, my mate is pretty aware that theres a very little chance of getting it back, i told him id just ask and see what other people say incase there was like a special investigator or something we could go to, but if it's been used for parts or something like that it could be on 50 different r33's around the world lol. im pretty sure the most professional person could not steal my car right now, they would have a fulty immobiliser, most of the turbo side pulled appart, electrical wires unplugged everywhere under the hood, it has no oil or coolant & on ramps with the front spoiler removed, ha.

to have more of a chance of someone not stealing ya car try,

Parking next to kerb and turning the wheels fullock into the kerb till the steering lock pops.

If you park your car out the front of your house try park it under a street light

If you park you car out side your house and its a daily, work out how much fuel u need to get to work each day, say it be 15L, Put 15-20L of fuel in each morning, instead of filling up at the start of the week, that why the dicks will

have to get fuel once they take off in ya car, or they will run out near by your house.

Always have a kill switch, even no they are stupid easy to get past, have a ignition kill switch and a fuel pump kill switch put em in random spots, anything to slow them down abit,

Alarm well thats the same as the switch its goin to slow em down....

Steering lock, they easy to, but i still like to put one on.

Other people ive seen with those biggass yellow Wheel locks that rap around your rear wheel, a bitch to put on everynite, but hey... they work.

Flame me as much as u want, i still think doin all these things would make it harder for somone to steel your car, i dont care what anyone says.

it took me and my dad 45 mins a really low car reailer & allot of sweat & tears to get my lowered skyline onto a car trainer not to mention i cracked the center muffler doing it, it also made a hell of a noise with chains and what not, im sure id hear it happen.

think tow truck.

meh, club lock, alarm, immobiliser, even take the coil pack loom off or the coilpacks if you're that paranoid, if they still take it they are likely pros and have been sussing it out for a while.

I've heard of people having D shackles set into concrete floors so that chains can be put through the wheels (have seen pics of this done in a garage which housed a VL Group A lol).

think tow truck.

meh, club lock, alarm, immobiliser, even take the coil pack loom off or the coilpacks if you're that paranoid, if they still take it they are likely pros and have been sussing it out for a while.

I've heard of people having D shackles set into concrete floors so that chains can be put through the wheels (have seen pics of this done in a garage which housed a VL Group A lol).

Ha ha ha... I like that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...