Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeh I wouldn't think it would make that much more even if boost remained constant through out the rev range...

I'm seriously considering E85... going to have to look into bigger injectors and fuel setup... but might just wait till I see some more digits in the savings account :laugh:

thanks

nope.. motor is unopened besides the Injectors

Mods are the generic mods..

PFC

Profec B

550cc injectors

Full 3" Exhaust...

custom dump

custom intake

apexi pod

BOV

z32 AFM

walbro pump

etc

Nice power....

But I thought z32 AFM cant read anything after 260rwkw? And how much psi were u running to get that sort of power?

Nice power....

But I thought z32 AFM cant read anything after 260rwkw? And how much psi were u running to get that sort of power?

as per the dyno sheet attached on the first page of this thread, roughly 18-19psi fading down to about 17psi near redline.

.... GCG rekon this new rear housing is 'original' Garrett and much more efficient...

I would say this is the key ingredient for the better output you have now and is typical power for both the original Garrett Gt3071 with the .82 rear end and the Hks Gt2835..... with the extra 10kw or so just being difference in dynos

I thought and so have read, that the stock head gasket needed replacing when boosting over 1 bar or so?

and where have you read that? I smash 1.3bar into my motor day in and out, and it's unopened.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...