Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It sure does on a lot of cars.

Try measuring the actual voltage across the fuel pump, do not be surprised if it is 11.5v or something on some cars. With the engine running at anything well above idle, there should be about 14.0 to 14.2 volts right at the battery.

So you use the original fuel pump wire to operate a relay instead of the pump, and run a pretty big thick wire straight from the main fuse-box to the relay, and then to the pump. This is usually a lot easier than rewiring the original fuel pump circuit.

If you can increase the voltage from 11.5v to 14v, that is nearly +22%, and the motor current will also increase 22% at the higher voltage. Pump power goes up about 49% in this example. The difference this can make to pressure and flow has to be seen to be believed.

Replacing the stock pump with a monster aftermarket pump will usually increase the pump operating current, so check the voltage at the pump. You may not actually be getting all that extra pump performance you paid for.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well this must be doing something, because with a stock GTR pump and a fairly decent wire straight to the battery, the pump is flowing enough on it's own to fuel this car with 720cc injectors and holding pressure with some big boost on the big T88 34D..

Running it down the track on Sunday with the engine rebuilt, so we will see just how much you can get out of a stock GTR pump.

In fact I have seen 2 GTR's running stock pumps that have been rewired and both are running low 11's on street tires etc..

Makes you think..

Hi GTR-Ben, I never underestimate the standard GTR fuel pump. they are certainly a good thing. But, I have tested a number of them and they consistently flow a little more than the stated figures. So sure, you can use them beyond what most people do.

The bottom line for me is, if I had just spent $12K on a turbo kit (retail for a T88-34D) why wouldn't I spend another $150 (net) on a larger fuel pump? After all what is this in comparison to the cost if it runs out of flow?

Insurance, I think it is called and $150 for $20K insurance is pretty cheap I reckon.

I've finally decided to get a gtr fuel pump after all of that! Reasons are that the Walbro's sound like they might not be too reliable and the bosch's are too loud for my liking.

I have 2 options, a second hand r34 gtr pump for $300

or

a BRAND NEW r32 gtr pump for $400 (from nissan these are normally $900)

I was thinking of getting the new gtr pump and fitting it myself, it's good cos it's meant to be a stright fit into my bracket!

hey, I have a R33 GTS-T that I want to pump up to 200rwKw

was thinking of purchasing a 2nd hand GTR fuel pump

do I need a fuel pressure regulator to accompany this? or would the stock ones do?

Im sure a GTR pump would be more than enough for my needs is there anything wrong with this idea?

same reason i like the gtr pumps, straight fit and are quieter than the bosch's.

You can get them second hand or there's a place in Vic which sells them brand new for $440 each. I'm getting one and I think if we were to get them together we might be able to get them cheaper.

pm me if interested! :)

  • 11 months later...

sorry guys to bump such a old thread but I am having trouble working out the flow /hr of a 044 pump, I have noticed SK and others have quoted it to flow 330l/hr but when I check on the bosch website it quotes only 200l/hr where is everyone getting there flow rates from

Brett

In the race GTST we have a GTR pump as the lifter to the surge tank and a Bosch 044 supplying the fuel to the engine.  It is solidly mounted to the boot floor, has braided lines and an inline filter all bracketed to the floor and it makes a huge racket.  Even with my helmet on and at full noise I can hear the thing rattle away when the surge tank is empty.  It makes a good safety warning.

Previously we had 2 X GTR pumps mounted the same way and they made much less noise.

It’s easy to fix the noise problem, Have done so before, Rubber mount the surge tank with (rubber spacer places) and Sleeve the 044 Pump with a silicon sleeve, Doesn’t stop the noise, but reduces it dramatically.

As for people wanting to put out series power, Its silly trying to run So Called "Bigger" walbro and bosh pump" in tank. If you have spent lots of money on engine setup, eg Internals, turbos, so on, Its really not that much more to put a newer "pump eg, Walbro or Bosch in tank to fill a Surge tank setup, with a Bosch 044 or 2 if needed. Because you won't get the same performance running a pump directly from the tank and trying to run 70 - 80 psi rail pressure.

Theirs no cutting corners when it comes to EFI, as it can kill a motor easily if you get the slightest drop in pressure at 30psi Boost.

sorry guys to bump such a old thread but I am having trouble working out the flow /hr of a 044 pump, I have noticed SK and others have quoted it to flow 330l/hr but when I check on the bosch website it quotes only 200l/hr where is everyone getting there flow rates from

Brett

the only thing I can think of to account for this is the pressure at which these figures are quoted at. ie. a pump that can flow 200l/hr at 80psi will flow a lot more than one quoted to flow 200l/hr at 50psi. Also apparently different companies use different liquids to test their pumps so this can affect readings too.

A Bosch 044 pump is rated at 12 volts for 200 litres per hour at 73.5 psi (40 psi fuel pressure plus 33.5 psi boost). If it is not pumping "against" that pressure the flow increases, it isn't linear either (ie; 36.75 psi is more than 400 litres per hour). They are around 10% conservatively underated. Plus I run mine at 13. 8 volts, being the alternator output voltage.

For a practical test, I measured the return flow (from the fuel pressure regulator to the tank) on a 650 bhp engine. There was enough fuel over supplied for at least another 100 bhp. So I believe the 730 bhp rating to be reasonable, as long as the rest of the fuel system is up to it of course.

Hope that helps:cheers:

PS, that engine was running Elf LMS, results may differ with other fuels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...