Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no problems my friend.

- Take out the plastic around the steering wheel holder. It should be hold down by 6 screws.

- Take out the ashtray then you should see 2 screws, undo them and the console around the gear stick should come out quite easily.

- Undo 3 bolts above the ashtray to take the main console surroundings. It should hold down by clips.

- Undo all electricals.

- Undo dash plastic

Then it should look like from the pic i have attached:

thats just the front bit.. I think he means like the whole dash.

JimX - i'm going to attempt removing my whole dash in the next couple of days as I've got to diagnose/fix my stuffed heater.

During this I'm going to take photos of the whole process and get a bit of a guide happening. Stay tuned! :D

nah man, like the whole friggin thing!

Like the vinyl bit on top, the glovebox, the fusebox area.. like everything, basically take it apart completely to the firewall. You have to do that to get to the heater core, and a few other things.

to follow on from pushhead,

under the steering wheel, you remove the 2 bolts from the bonnet release and the one near centre

console. push up and forward and that will come out.

predator ran through the glovebox removal here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30976

then there are about 6 screws near head unit/air con, 2 on the left and right sides on the dash.

you also have to remove the handles on both sides, above your head, unclip that whole panel

and remove the clips from sides of the dash. also need to pop out the vents for the demister

ontop of the dash, and you'll need to reach right up under the dash to unclip the light

sensor that goes up near those demister vents! there are 3 screws under these vents!

then you just lift and you will need 2 people to make this anywhere near easy!

and also may need to take the wheel off to get the dash over-

dont even attempt to use the vents for leverage, they break real easy! take them out if you

cant get a hold of the dash! just take your hand up from underneath and pop them out not

hard!

did this about 6months ago so i might be a little rusty!

Well 2 hours later, I've got the dash apart. Now the passenger has a nice cool grab bar in case of emergency - HOLD ON! Its not *that* difficult but requires a lot of removing of bits and pieces and most of all time.

Believe it or not you can still drive it like this (i think) once i reattach the steering wheel. Who needs pesky things like a speedo, petrol guage or tacho anyhow :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...