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Hi guys,

Needs some ideas about amp and subwoofer in R34 Gt-t. Wondering if something can be made up in the little step portion of the boot? If not, I need a setup that I can remove quickly when bootspace is needed.

Interested in seeing pics of the different setup people have and any advice.

Thanks in advance.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312363-r34-subwoofer-ideas-and-pics/
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
just a quick pic of mine wb4 i had it finished. kenwood 12 inch sub. the sony amp on the left controlls the speakers and the us audio on the right is for the sub.

are you running that sub free air? no box behind it?

your fuse goes on the battery side in the engine bay not near the amp. or car fire waiting to happen

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :P

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

In my old car I built a custom box which sat under the parcel shelf and on the fuel tank ledge, made use of the space you just have to be a bit creative with designing the box capacity with the dimension constraints.

I regret not doing it with the current car, but I only use the boot a couple of times a year, so taking the sub box out on those special occasions doesn't both me *that* much.

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :)

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

yes but the car shown was a R34 GT... :ph34r:

the fuse at the battery is to protect the car, not the amps. when you get into a accident and the wire shorts to ground the current is huge thru a cable and will take a few seconds to start a carbbq without a fuse at the battery.

make the fuse at the battery pop before the amps fuse will, .....the ease in reseting a curcuit breaker or fuse is better in the engine bay or battery tray area is easier then a fiddly amp mounted in out of the way locations. so if they amp fuses are 60amps run a 50amp fuse or breaker up front. unless you have high current competition amps in a spl war, then run same size fuse, breaker

((((unless the amps don't have any fuses in the case,)))))(some really high power amps dont run fuses at all but they're pushing 10,000 watts or more)

not something you would find in a skyline due to space and charging requirements.

a reset breaker is a bonus, if your blowing gold plated ANL fuses over and over it can get expensive fast(the metal can sag after being heated from current and do weaken over time). two breakers in parallel can add up the current load, I run 2 x 120 amp models on mine. in that fashion. for a total of 240amp load before popping them.

and 240amps can do some serious welding in a hurry..lol blow a hole right thru steel plate

fuses and breaker

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm

but time to get back to topic

i vote MDF box carpeted and some banana clips connected to the box for easy removal. just unplug and u can remove the box when it comes to the amp u have two option with the above setup. either have is permanently mounted to the car and use a switch on remote wire to turn that amp off or mount the amp to the speaker box but then u have to disconnect the power wires, remote wire, and RCA.

if u want to have a decent amount of room with the box in frp may be ur option but making a box out of mdf is the easiest option and it makes it easier to "tune" ported, sealed what ever u want. u should also consider the sub itself and how much room it needs.

  • 1 year later...

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