Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Needs some ideas about amp and subwoofer in R34 Gt-t. Wondering if something can be made up in the little step portion of the boot? If not, I need a setup that I can remove quickly when bootspace is needed.

Interested in seeing pics of the different setup people have and any advice.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312363-r34-subwoofer-ideas-and-pics/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
just a quick pic of mine wb4 i had it finished. kenwood 12 inch sub. the sony amp on the left controlls the speakers and the us audio on the right is for the sub.

are you running that sub free air? no box behind it?

your fuse goes on the battery side in the engine bay not near the amp. or car fire waiting to happen

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :P

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

In my old car I built a custom box which sat under the parcel shelf and on the fuel tank ledge, made use of the space you just have to be a bit creative with designing the box capacity with the dimension constraints.

I regret not doing it with the current car, but I only use the boot a couple of times a year, so taking the sub box out on those special occasions doesn't both me *that* much.

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :)

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

yes but the car shown was a R34 GT... :ph34r:

the fuse at the battery is to protect the car, not the amps. when you get into a accident and the wire shorts to ground the current is huge thru a cable and will take a few seconds to start a carbbq without a fuse at the battery.

make the fuse at the battery pop before the amps fuse will, .....the ease in reseting a curcuit breaker or fuse is better in the engine bay or battery tray area is easier then a fiddly amp mounted in out of the way locations. so if they amp fuses are 60amps run a 50amp fuse or breaker up front. unless you have high current competition amps in a spl war, then run same size fuse, breaker

((((unless the amps don't have any fuses in the case,)))))(some really high power amps dont run fuses at all but they're pushing 10,000 watts or more)

not something you would find in a skyline due to space and charging requirements.

a reset breaker is a bonus, if your blowing gold plated ANL fuses over and over it can get expensive fast(the metal can sag after being heated from current and do weaken over time). two breakers in parallel can add up the current load, I run 2 x 120 amp models on mine. in that fashion. for a total of 240amp load before popping them.

and 240amps can do some serious welding in a hurry..lol blow a hole right thru steel plate

fuses and breaker

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm

but time to get back to topic

i vote MDF box carpeted and some banana clips connected to the box for easy removal. just unplug and u can remove the box when it comes to the amp u have two option with the above setup. either have is permanently mounted to the car and use a switch on remote wire to turn that amp off or mount the amp to the speaker box but then u have to disconnect the power wires, remote wire, and RCA.

if u want to have a decent amount of room with the box in frp may be ur option but making a box out of mdf is the easiest option and it makes it easier to "tune" ported, sealed what ever u want. u should also consider the sub itself and how much room it needs.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...